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The Ultimate BeerSmith Equipment Profile Guide

Author: Hou

May. 13, 2024

Machinery

The Ultimate BeerSmith Equipment Profile Guide

The Ultimate BeerSmith Equipment Profile Guide

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Some of the most frequent questions I receive on BeerSmith software are about how to properly set up and dial in your equipment profile. This is an important first step as the equipment you are using drives all of the critical recipe estimates like color, bitterness and original gravity.

I’ve composed many articles and videos over the years on equipment profiles, so I thought I would try to combine those links into one super-post.

A Good Equipment Starting Point

If you are starting with BeerSmith from scratch, my first recommendation is to try to use one of the pre-existing equipment profiles. For example, BeerSmith comes pre-loaded with many common sized brewing systems for All-Grain, BIAB and Extract brewers. It also has common mead, wine and cider profiles. You can find these under Profiles->Equipment view in the desktop, web or mobile program.

Equipment Add-ons Available for Most Major Systems

The above are generic equipment profiles, but if you have a specific brewing system from one of the popular suppliers like Blichmann, Anvil, BrewZilla, Grainfather, Robobrew, SS Brewtech, etc…you can instead use the Add-ons feature in BeerSmith to download profiles specific to your system. On the desktop, go to Profiles->Equipment and then click on the Equip Add-ons button to display and download various systems. On the web version you can go to Profiles->Equipment and click on Manage Preloaded, and the mobile version has an Add-on button on the main menu. Simply download the specific profiles you need and then select them when building your recipe.

You can also use the Set as Default feature on any of the platforms detailed here to make your equipment profile the default.

Creating a Custom Equipment Profile

In general, modifying a pre-loaded equipment profile is your best option, but if you want to create your own equipment profile from scratch you can do so. The key is to get your volumes correct at each stage and then also set reasonable estimates for the overall brewhouse efficiency and the mash tun heat capacity (how much heat the mash tun absorbs).

BeerSmith starts with the Batch Volume which is the volume into the fermenter and works backwards from that adding and subtracting various losses to get to the needed pre-boil volume. From there it factors in the grain bill to calculate mash and sparge water needed. Ideally you want to adjust your volumes and losses to match your actual brew session.

I’ve done a number of specific articles on this topic:

Handling Different Equipment System Types

I’ve also done some articles based on various equipment types which cover how to use a BIAB or RIMS system for instance:

Professional Beer Brewing

Some additional considerations come into play when you are creating an equipment profile at the professional (1 barrel or more) level. I’ve introduced the key considerations in the article below. In particular your overall brewhouse efficiency is typically a bit higher on a large system, and your hop utilization factor listed as Large Batch Hop Utilization in the equipment profile usually well above 100%:

Matching the Mash Profile to the Equipment

For all grain brewing, BeerSmith assumes a simple infusion mash with a fly sparge as the default. However if you have an all-in-one or BIAB style system where you use all of the water up front and then remove the grain basket or grain bag instead of sparging then you need to select a BIAB mash profile in the recipe to avoid the sparge step. If you are a No-Sparge brewer you would also want to use a BIAB mash profile to avoid the sparge steps.

Similarly if you are using a RIMS/HERMS system with direct heat between mash steps you want to select one of the RIMS-HERMS mash profiles in your recipe. Similarly if you are a batch sparge brewer you would need to select one of the batch sparge mash profiles.

While those are the major cases, you might want to check out the equipment specific links in the section Handling Different Equipment Types listed above for specific details on how your equipment works best with BeerSmith.

Improving and Adjusting Your Equipment Profile

In an ideal world, your estimated gravity, volumes, color, bitterness and ABV would all match up with the measurements you take when brewing. In the real world, lot of factors come into play and may alter the measured values.

The first thing I recommend brewers do when working with a new profile is to simply brew a batch of beer and measure all of the volumes and gravities as you go. If your volumes are off at any point in the brewing process, you should adjust your volumes in the profile to match the actuals by adjusting the batch volume into the fermenter and then adjusting losses as needed to match things up. This is an important first step because if your volumes are off then your gravities will not match up.

After you have the volumes in line you need to brew again and adjust your brewhouse efficiency to match the original gravity predictions up. I have an article on this bookmarked here that can help you adjust equipment profiles:

Adjusting Your Mash Temperatures

A final adjustment to make is to match up your mash temperatures. I have a detailed post on mash temperature adjustments here. When you mix the grains and waters during the mash-in step the grain and water temperatures can be set on the mash tab. However the amount of heat absorbed by the mash tun itself is a factor which is included in the equipment parameters for Mash Tun Weight and Mash Tun Specific Heat.

The main item we adjust is the mash tun specific heat in the equipment profile. A higher specific heat number indicates a more insulated mash tun while a low number indicates a material that transmits heat quickly. Therefore if your measured mash step temperatures come in higher than predicted, you may need to raise the specific heat number. If your measured temperature comes in lower than predicted you may need to lower that number.

Changes for High Gravity Beers

A final factor to consider is how your efficiency will change for very high gravity beers. Because you are working with proportionally less water and more grain in a high gravity beer, you will always get lower mash and brewhouse efficiency. I’ve covered this in detail in this article, but the bottom line is that you typically need to adjust your equipment profile to use a lower Brewhouse Efficiency number when making a high gravity beer or barley wine.

You can handle this either by making a one off change to the efficiency number in the recipe, or by building a second equipment profile. I personally have made a copy of my regular equipment profile and then modified it with a lower efficiency number and different “high gravity” name. Then when I brew a high gravity brew, I simply choose my high gravity equipment profile instead of my default one.

Wrapping it All Up

Keep in mind, you should generally adjust the equipment profile under Profiles->Equipment as this is the one that will be used when you select a profile into your recipe. Also if you are using the Set as Default feature you should pull in your new profile and set it as the default after making changes so these changes will also appear in future recipes. Because all older recipes have copies of your old equipment profile embedded, it does not hurt to bring in your current profile by selecting it again when editing an old or archived recipe.

I hope this post helps you to get BeerSmith set up properly and also aids you in building great recipes. I’m going to include two more links to help you learn more about BeerSmith:

  • BeerSmith Video Tutorials
  • BeerSmith Articles – Scroll down to the BeerSmith Software section

I hope you enjoyed this week’s article from the BeerSmith Home Brewing Blog. Please subscribe for regular weekly delivery, and don’t hesitate to leave a comment or send this article to a friend.

Related Beer Brewing Articles from BeerSmith:

Craft Beer Brewing Equipment: A Complete Guide

Homebrewing and craft brewing have seen a huge surge in popularity in recent years. With so many new hobbyists and microbreweries entering the market, the range of brewing equipment available has expanded dramatically. This guide will explore the various types of equipment needed for craft beer production, from kettles and fermenters to kegging systems and filtration units. We’ll break down the key choices, considerations, and costs for setting up your brewhouse.

The basic brewing process involves mashing grains, boiling wort, fermenting, conditioning, filtering, and packaging. While it’s possible to produce beer with very simple equipment, most craft breweries use more specialized gear to improve efficiency, quality, and capacity. Here’s an overview of the typical equipment needed:

Brewing Equipment Type Key Function Entry Level Options Advanced Options Mash tun / Lauter tun Mixes crushed grains with hot water for mash conversion and wort separation Cooler mashtun with braided hose Stainless mash tun with false bottom Brew kettle Heats wort, facilitates boiling and hop additions 5-10 gallon brew kettle 15-30 barrel commercial brewhouse Wort chiller Quickly cools boiled wort before fermentation Immersion chiller coil Plate chiller, heat exchanger Fermenter Holds beer during primary and secondary fermentation Plastic bucket, glass carboy Conical stainless unitank Temperature control Maintains optimal fermentation temperature Fermwrap heater, cool bottle Glycol chiller system, heat exchanger Yeast management Cultivates yeast for fermentation pitch Mason jars, stir plate Yeast brink, conical propagator Transfer equipment Moves liquids between vessels Auto-siphon, tubing, pump Automatic inline transfer Filtration Clarifies and stabilizes finished beer None, settling in fermenter Plate filter, centrifugation Carbonation Adds CO2 bubbles to beer before serving Priming sugar, cask conditioning Force carbonation in keg or brite tank Serving vessels Dispenses carbonated beer to drinkers Bottles, kegs, casks Canning line, bottling line

This covers the standard brewing hardware for small to medium sized breweries. Larger industrial setups will also incorporate conveyors, automated sensors, CIP systems, and other specialized gear. Understanding the options for each process will help craft the ideal brewhouse within budget.

Mash Tun / Lauter Tun Options

The mash tun mixes the crushed malt with hot water to activate mash enzymes and convert starches into fermentable sugars. The lauter tun then separates the sugary wort from the grain particulates. For homebrewers, this is often done in a single vessel like an insulated picnic cooler. Commercial breweries generally use dedicated mash and lauter tuns.

Mash Tun Considerations

  • Volume – Size in gallons or barrels to accommodate max batch size
  • Direct vs indirect heat – Steam jackets vs external heating of water
  • Insulation – Reduce heat loss during mashing rest times
  • False bottom – Perforated or slotted screen for wort filtration
  • Rakes – Mix mash and improve filtration efficiency
  • Automation – Computerized temperature and viscosity sensors
Type Description Capacity Cost Cooler mashtun Insulated beverage cooler with braided hose for filtering 5-10 gallon batches $50-$150 Stainless mash tun Fabricated stainless steel mash tun with false bottom 10-20 barrel brewhouse $5,000-$10,000 Jacketed mash tun Steam-heated commercial mash tun 15-30 barrel system $15,000-$25,000

Homebrewers can often repurpose a drink cooler as a combined mash/lauter tun on a budget under $100. Commercial mash tuns require heavy duty stainless construction and false bottoms for wort filtration. Automated rakes and computer controls further increase costs in large brewhouses.

Brew Kettles for Boiling Wort

After lautering, the sweet wort moves to the brew kettle for boiling. This accomplishes several things:

  • Sterilization – Boiling kills bacteria for sanitation
  • Hop Isomerization – Adds bitterness and flavor from hops
  • Extraction – Dissolves sugars, proteins and compounds from hops
  • Evaporation – Concentrates wort to desired gravity and volume

Many options exist for wort boiling vessels:

Type Volume Heat Source Cost Stainless steel brew kettle 5-30 gallon Propane burner $100-$500 Electric brew kettle 5-15 gallon Embedded electric elements $150-$500 Steam jacketed kettle 7-30 barrel Steam jacket $5,000-$25,000 Direct fire brewhouse 10-100 barrel Gas burner array $50,000-$500,000

For homebrewing, basic stainless kettles in the 5-10 gallon range work well for stovetop boiling. Commercial kettles use steam jackets, natural gas burners, or electric elements to generate the heat needed for larger batch sizes. Sophisticated computer automation is also common. Costs scale dramatically with production capacity.

Wort Chillers for Rapid Cooling

Once boiled, the hot wort must be quickly cooled to under 100°F to pitch yeast. Slow cooling risks contamination and poor fermentation. Brewers use wort chillers to optimize this temperature reduction.

Cooling Method How It Works Speed Cost Ice bath Submerge kettle in ice water bath Slow, 1+ hrs Cheap, ice Immersion chiller Coil in kettle cooled by flow of cold water Medium, 30 min $50-$100 Plate chiller Flow wort across plates surrounded by cold water Very fast, 5 min $150-$300 Heat exchanger Pass wort through tubes surrounded by cold liquid Extremely fast, 1 min $1,500+

For 5 gallon batches, an immersion chiller coil works well and is inexpensive. Larger commercial heat exchangers or plate chillers provide rapid cooling. Glycol chillers are also popular for precise temperature control.

Fermentation Vessels: Carboys, Buckets, Unitanks

Once chilled, the wort is transferred to a fermentation vessel where yeast converts sugars into alcohol and CO2. Many fermenter options exist:

Type Volume Material Cost Glass carboy 3-6 gallons Glass $20-$50 Plastic bucket 3-6 gallons Food-grade plastic $10-$20 Stainless conical 7-60 barrel Stainless steel $1,000-$5,000 Open fermentor 5-30 barrel Stainless or wood $500-$2,000

Homebrewers often use inexpensive carboys and buckets in the 5 gallon range. Commercial breweries use large stainless steel unitank fermenters with conical bottoms for collecting yeast and dry hop additions. Open wood or stainless fermentors are also popular for specific beer styles.

Temperature Control Systems

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Controlling fermentation temperature is critical for clean, consistent beer. The optimal range for most ales is 60-72°F. Lagers ferment even colder, around 45-55°F. Options for temperature control include:

Type Method Precision Cost Swamp cooler Evaporative cooling via wet shirt or towel ± 4-5°F Cheap Fermwrap heater Heating pad wraps fermenter ± 2°F $30-$50 Glycol chiller Recirculate cooled glycol liquid ± 1°F $300-$1,000 Jacketed unitank Integrated cooling jacket ± 1°F $1,000-$5,000+

The glycol chiller systems used by professional breweries allow precise temperature control, but are expensive. Homebrewers can often manage with cheaper fermwrap heaters or swamp cooler setups.

Yeast Management Equipment

Reusing a healthy yeast culture speeds fermentation and provides consistency between batches. Equipment like stir plates and yeast brinks help maintain cultures.

Item Purpose Cost Mason jar Store yeast cakes for harvesting $1 Erlenmeyer flask Grow yeast starters on stir plate $5-$10 Stir plate Agitate yeast starter for growth $50-$150 Yeast brink Maintain active cultures for pitching $1,000-$2,000

For homebrewing, mason jars and flasks work well for reusing yeast and making starters. Commercial brewers use yeast brinks for large volume storage and management of multiple strains.

Transfer Equipment: Pumps, Tubing, Racking Canes

Sanitary transfers from fermenters to aging tanks, packaging, and more require various tubing, piping, valves and pumps:

Item Material Purpose Cost Auto-siphon Plastic Homebrew transfers $10-$20 Tubing Vinyl, silicone, stainless Short runs of wort/beer $0.50-$2/ft Quick disconnects Stainless, plastic Disconnect tubing easily $3-$10 ea Pump Stainless steel Transfer liquids $100-$1,000 Inline filter Plastic, stainless Clarify transfers $20-$150

Food grade vinyl or silicone tubing works for small transfers. Stainless steel piping is used for hard plumbed commercial systems, along with quick disconnect fittings for assembly. Peristaltic and centrifugal pumps efficiently move beer between vessels.

Beer Filtration Systems

Filtering finished beer helps clarify appearance and enhance stability:

Type Method Scale Cost Gelatin fining Gelatin powder binds haze particles for settling Homebrew, 1-5 barrels $20 per batch Diatomaceous earth Filter aid forms porous cake to filter beer Pilot system, 1-7 barrels $100-$300 Plate and frame filter Beer forced through stacked plates by pressure Mid-size brewery, 5-30 barrels $4,000-$8,000 Centrifuge Spin beer at high speed to separate solids Large brewery, 30+ barrels $30,000-$60,000+

Simple gelatin fining works well for homebrew scale if beer is given time to settle out in the fermenter. Commercial breweries use either plate filters or centrifuges for clarity and stability.

Carbonation and Serving

The final steps of production involve adding carbonation and serving the beer:

Method How It Works Scale Cost Priming sugar Added to fermenter, yeast produce natural CO2 Homebrew, kegs, cask Minimal Cask conditioning Secondary fermentation in cask Firkins, pins $100-$500 per cask Force carbonation Inject CO2 into kegs, tanks, brite beer Draft and bottling systems $500-$5,000 Counter pressure filler Maintains CO2 during bottling Bottling line $2,000-$10,000

Homebrewers and cask ale pubs rely on priming sugar for natural carbonation. Larger breweries force carbonate everything from kegs to bottles. Specialized counter pressure fillers maintain carbonation levels for bottling draft beer.

Choosing Brewing System Suppliers

Many factors go into selecting equipment vendors and designing a brewhouse. Here are key considerations when sourcing a professional brewing system:

  • Reputation and experience – How long have they been in business? Check references.
  • Quality of fabrication – Build quality, material choice, sanitation.
  • Customization – Ability to accommodate specific needs.
  • Customer service – Responsive support. Availability of parts/service.
  • Scale options – Systems sized for needs today and growth plans.
  • Pricing/value – Competitive pricing for quality and features.
  • Lead time – Ability to deliver within project timeline.
  • Manual vs automated – Level of control system integration needed.

Thorough upfront planning and vendor selection helps ensure a productive, efficient, and scalable brewing system that will support business goals.

Pros and Cons of Brewing Equipment Choices

Deciding on the right equipment configuration depends on budget, production goals, and growth plans. Here’s a look at the advantages and limitations of key options:

Equipment Pros Cons Cooler mashtun Inexpensive, easy Limited efficiency and batches Gas fired kettle Powerful, fast boiling Venting challenges, energy costs Electric kettle Clean, convenient Upfront cost, slow ramp up Plate chiller Rapid chilling Expensive, space Conical fermenter Yeast collection, dry hopping Cost, equipment footprint Glycol chiller Precise control Complex, high cost Centrifuge Fast, clear beer Very expensive, delicate

Balancing factors like cost, quality, consistency, and capacity help guide equipment decisions for a brewhouse. Focus on the functionality needed to meet quality and production goals both now and for projected growth.

Equipment Cost Analysis

Brewing equipment represents a major startup and capital investment. Expect costs from $1,000 to over $1 million depending on system scale and features. Here are typical price ranges:

System Key Components Typical Cost Range 1 barrel pilot system 3 vessel brew kettle, fermenters, glycol chiller, kegging $15,000-$30,000 3-7 barrel microbrewery 3-7 barrel kettle, 5-15 barrel fermentation, glycol, filtration, keg/canning $75,000-$250,000 15 barrel production brewery 15 barrel kettle, 30 barrel fermenters, centrifuge, canning $500,000-$1.5 million 30 barrel regional brewery 30-60 barrel kettle, 120 barrel fermenters, bottling $1.5-$5 million

Economies of scale allow larger breweries to produce beer at lower equipment costs per barrel. However, quality ingredients, technique and passion remain key!

FAQs

Q: What are the essential items for a basic homebrew system?

A: For basic homebrewing, you need a brew kettle, fermenting bucket, siphon and tubing, sanitizer, airlock, thermometer, bottles, and ingredients. Start with our homebrewing startup guide.

Q: What size brewing system do I need for a microbrewery?

A: For a microbrewery, look at 1-3 barrel brewhouses up to 10-15 barrels. This covers tapping 1-3 kegs at a time for a taproom up to broader distribution.

Q: Is buying used brewing equipment a good idea?

A: Used equipment can save money, but evaluate wear and sanitation carefully. Replace any items that are overly worn or rusted. Ensure electrical components meet current codes.

Q: How much does it cost to open a 10 barrel microbrewery?

A: With a 10 barrel brewhouse, 3 10-barrel fermenters, glycol chiller, brite tank, kegging and modest taproom buildout, plan on $250,000-$500,000.

Q: Should I choose stainless or copper brewing equipment?

A: Modern breweries strongly prefer stainless steel for durability and sanitation. Copper looks beautiful, but requires heavy maintenance. Go stainless for functionality.

Q: What qualifications should a brewery design consultant have?

A: Look for a consultant with at least 10-15 years of commercial brewing experience with system design, installation, and operation expertise. An engineering background is a plus.

Q: Can I build my own electric brewery control system?

A: While advanced homebrewers can construct electric kettles and controllers, commercial breweries are better served by integrated automation packages from reputable vendors. This reduces troubleshooting and risk.

Q: How often do breweries need to replace equipment?

A: With proper maintenance, major equipment like kettles, fermenters, chillers, and filtration can last 15-25 years. Expect to replace pumps, gaskets, and small parts more regularly.

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