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Jun. 17, 2024
Too much fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it can damage plants and harm the environment.
Too much fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it can damage plants and harm the environment.
With the right amount of nutrients, your garden can thrive and provide pounds of produce for harvest.
Like us, plants need nutrients in varying amounts for healthy growth. There are 17 essential nutrients that all plants need, including carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, which plants get from air and water. The remaining 14 are obtained from soil but may need to be supplemented with fertilizers or organic materials such as compost.
Nutrient availability in soils is a function of several factors including soil texture (loam, loamy sand, silt loam), organic matter content and pH.
Clay particles and organic matter in soils are chemically reactive and will hold and slowly release nutrient ions that can be used by plants.
Soils that are finer-textured (more clay) and higher in organic matter (5-10%) have greater nutrient-holding ability than sandy soils with little or no clay or organic matter. Sandy soils in Minnesota are also more prone to nutrient losses through leaching, as water carries nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium or sulfur below the root zone where plants can no longer access them.
Soil pH is the degree of alkalinity or acidity of soils. When pH is too low or too high, chemical reactions can alter the nutrient availability and biological activity in soils. Most fruits and vegetables grow best when soil pH is slightly acidic to neutral, or between 5.5 and 7.0.
There are some exceptions; blueberries, for example, require a low pH (4.2-5.2). Soil pH can be modified using materials like lime (ground limestone) to raise pH or elemental sulfur to lower pH.
In general, most Minnesota soils have enough calcium, magnesium, sulfur and micronutrients to support healthy plant growth. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the nutrients most likely to be deficient and should be supplemented with fertilizers for optimum plant growth.
The best method for assessing nutrient availability in your garden is to do a soil test. A basic soil test from the University of Minnesotas Soil Testing Laboratory will give a soil texture estimate, organic matter content (used to estimate nitrogen availability), phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime requirement.
The analysis will also come with a basic interpretation of results and provide recommendations for fertilizing.
There are many options for fertilizers and sometimes the choices may seem overwhelming. The most important thing to remember is that plants take up nutrients in the form of ions, and the source of those ions is not a factor in plant nutrition.
For example, plants get nitrogen via NO3- (nitrate) or NH4+ (ammonium), and those ions can come from either organic or synthetic sources and in various formulations (liquid, granular, pellets or compost).
The fertilizer you choose should be based primarily on soil test results and plant needs, both in terms of nutrients and speed of delivery.
Other factors to consider include soil and environmental health as well as your budget.
All commercially available fertilizers have what is called a guaranteed analysis, meaning the percent of each major nutrient, by weight, in the fertilizer must be listed on the package as N-P-K.
For example, 10 pounds of 17-18-28 tomato food fertilizer contains 1.7 pounds of nitrogen, 1.8 pounds of phosphorus oxide (P2O5 phosphate), and 2.8 pounds of potassium oxide (K2O potash).
Many garden fertilizers contain additional nutrients. Inorganic fertilizers generally list all nutrients on the label, organic fertilizers often contain a wide array of plant nutrients and may not list them all.
If you cannot find a fertilizer with the exact N-P-K ratio that is recommended by your soil test report, you should select a product with a ratio that most closely matches. Its more important to match the nitrogen recommendation than the phosphorus or potassium recommendations, but try not to exceed the phosphorus recommendation because of water quality concerns.
Note that a 10-20-10 fertilizer has a ratio of nutrients that is 1:2:1, meaning that for every 1 pound of N, there are 2 pounds of P2O5 and 1 pound of K2O.
Fertilizers are either inorganic or organic.
Regardless of which fertilizers you choose, consider adding additional organic materials to support overall soil health. Carbon-based materials such as organic fertilizers, compost, grass clippings or cover crops provide a range of benefits to both plants and soil.
Diagnosing nutrient deficiencies or excesses in fruits and vegetables is challenging. Many nutrient issues look alike, often more than one nutrient is involved, and the reasons for them can be highly variable.
Here are some examples of issues you may see in the garden.
N-P-K fertilizers with ratios of 1:2:2 or 1:2:1 are particularly well-suited for transplants and can be applied when plants are set in the ground.
Foliar fertilizers may also be helpful in some cases, although most nutrient acquisition is through plant roots.
Foliar fertilization may be used to correct deficiencies during the growing season, to provide micronutrients such as zinc or iron when soil pH is greater than 7, or to supply nutrients such as potassium and phosphorus in cool spring soils, when plant roots absorb fewer nutrients
Finally, remember to use fertilizer wisely and always follow label instructions. Too much fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it can damage plants and harm the environment. With the right amount of nutrients, however, your garden can thrive and provide pounds of produce for harvest.
Rosen, C., Bierman, P., and Finney, H., . Soil Resources and Fertilizers. In Weisenhorn, J. (Ed.), Master Gardener Core Course: Horticulture for the Home Gardener, 41-88. University of Minnesota Extension.
Rosen, C. and Eliason, R., . Nutrient Management for Commercial Fruit & Vegetable Crops in Minnesota. University of Minnesota Extension. http://hdl.handle.net//. Accessed 7/.
Reviewed in
This article was co-authored by Lauren Kurtz . Lauren Kurtz is a Naturalist and Horticultural Specialist. Lauren has worked for Aurora, Colorado managing the Water-Wise Garden at Aurora Municipal Center for the Water Conservation Department. She earned a BA in Environmental and Sustainability Studies from Western Michigan University in . This article has been viewed 361,123 times.
Article Summary
X
To apply urea fertilizerurea fertilizer, wait for a cool, windless day when the temperature is between 32° and 60°F (0° and 16°C). On warmer, windy days, the urea will break down too quickly. If youre applying urea before planting, use a fertilizer that contains a urease inhibitor, which will prevent the urea from being used up too quickly before your plants grow. Spread the urea granules across your soil, focusing on the spots around your plants roots or where you plan on burying seeds. Then, water the soil so the top ½ inch (1.3 cm) is wet, which will help incorporate the urea into the soil and prevent the ammonia gas it releases from escaping. Finally, till the urea into the top layer of the soil so its fully incorporated. For more advice from our Horticulturist co-author, like how to mix urea with other fertilizers, read on.
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With the right amount of nutrients, your garden can thrive and provide pounds of produce for harvest.
Like us, plants need nutrients in varying amounts for healthy growth. There are 17 essential nutrients that all plants need, including carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, which plants get from air and water. The remaining 14 are obtained from soil but may need to be supplemented with fertilizers or organic materials such as compost.
Nutrient availability in soils is a function of several factors including soil texture (loam, loamy sand, silt loam), organic matter content and pH.
Clay particles and organic matter in soils are chemically reactive and will hold and slowly release nutrient ions that can be used by plants.
Soils that are finer-textured (more clay) and higher in organic matter (5-10%) have greater nutrient-holding ability than sandy soils with little or no clay or organic matter. Sandy soils in Minnesota are also more prone to nutrient losses through leaching, as water carries nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium or sulfur below the root zone where plants can no longer access them.
Soil pH is the degree of alkalinity or acidity of soils. When pH is too low or too high, chemical reactions can alter the nutrient availability and biological activity in soils. Most fruits and vegetables grow best when soil pH is slightly acidic to neutral, or between 5.5 and 7.0.
There are some exceptions; blueberries, for example, require a low pH (4.2-5.2). Soil pH can be modified using materials like lime (ground limestone) to raise pH or elemental sulfur to lower pH.
In general, most Minnesota soils have enough calcium, magnesium, sulfur and micronutrients to support healthy plant growth. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the nutrients most likely to be deficient and should be supplemented with fertilizers for optimum plant growth.
The best method for assessing nutrient availability in your garden is to do a soil test. A basic soil test from the University of Minnesotas Soil Testing Laboratory will give a soil texture estimate, organic matter content (used to estimate nitrogen availability), phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime requirement.
The analysis will also come with a basic interpretation of results and provide recommendations for fertilizing.
There are many options for fertilizers and sometimes the choices may seem overwhelming. The most important thing to remember is that plants take up nutrients in the form of ions, and the source of those ions is not a factor in plant nutrition.
For example, plants get nitrogen via NO3- (nitrate) or NH4+ (ammonium), and those ions can come from either organic or synthetic sources and in various formulations (liquid, granular, pellets or compost).
The fertilizer you choose should be based primarily on soil test results and plant needs, both in terms of nutrients and speed of delivery.
Other factors to consider include soil and environmental health as well as your budget.
All commercially available fertilizers have what is called a guaranteed analysis, meaning the percent of each major nutrient, by weight, in the fertilizer must be listed on the package as N-P-K.
For example, 10 pounds of 17-18-28 tomato food fertilizer contains 1.7 pounds of nitrogen, 1.8 pounds of phosphorus oxide (P2O5 phosphate), and 2.8 pounds of potassium oxide (K2O potash).
Many garden fertilizers contain additional nutrients. Inorganic fertilizers generally list all nutrients on the label, organic fertilizers often contain a wide array of plant nutrients and may not list them all.
If you cannot find a fertilizer with the exact N-P-K ratio that is recommended by your soil test report, you should select a product with a ratio that most closely matches. Its more important to match the nitrogen recommendation than the phosphorus or potassium recommendations, but try not to exceed the phosphorus recommendation because of water quality concerns.
Want more information on npk 20 20 20 te fertilizer? Feel free to contact us.
Note that a 10-20-10 fertilizer has a ratio of nutrients that is 1:2:1, meaning that for every 1 pound of N, there are 2 pounds of P2O5 and 1 pound of K2O.
Fertilizers are either inorganic or organic.
Regardless of which fertilizers you choose, consider adding additional organic materials to support overall soil health. Carbon-based materials such as organic fertilizers, compost, grass clippings or cover crops provide a range of benefits to both plants and soil.
Diagnosing nutrient deficiencies or excesses in fruits and vegetables is challenging. Many nutrient issues look alike, often more than one nutrient is involved, and the reasons for them can be highly variable.
Here are some examples of issues you may see in the garden.
N-P-K fertilizers with ratios of 1:2:2 or 1:2:1 are particularly well-suited for transplants and can be applied when plants are set in the ground.
Foliar fertilizers may also be helpful in some cases, although most nutrient acquisition is through plant roots.
Foliar fertilization may be used to correct deficiencies during the growing season, to provide micronutrients such as zinc or iron when soil pH is greater than 7, or to supply nutrients such as potassium and phosphorus in cool spring soils, when plant roots absorb fewer nutrients
Finally, remember to use fertilizer wisely and always follow label instructions. Too much fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it can damage plants and harm the environment. With the right amount of nutrients, however, your garden can thrive and provide pounds of produce for harvest.
Rosen, C., Bierman, P., and Finney, H., . Soil Resources and Fertilizers. In Weisenhorn, J. (Ed.), Master Gardener Core Course: Horticulture for the Home Gardener, 41-88. University of Minnesota Extension.
Rosen, C. and Eliason, R., . Nutrient Management for Commercial Fruit & Vegetable Crops in Minnesota. University of Minnesota Extension. http://hdl.handle.net//. Accessed 7/.
Reviewed in
This article was co-authored by Lauren Kurtz . Lauren Kurtz is a Naturalist and Horticultural Specialist. Lauren has worked for Aurora, Colorado managing the Water-Wise Garden at Aurora Municipal Center for the Water Conservation Department. She earned a BA in Environmental and Sustainability Studies from Western Michigan University in . This article has been viewed 361,123 times.
Article Summary
X
To apply urea fertilizer, wait for a cool, windless day when the temperature is between 32° and 60°F (0° and 16°C). On warmer, windy days, the urea will break down too quickly. If youre applying urea before planting, use a fertilizer that contains a urease inhibitor, which will prevent the urea from being used up too quickly before your plants grow. Spread the urea granules across your soil, focusing on the spots around your plants roots or where you plan on burying seeds. Then, water the soil so the top ½ inch (1.3 cm) is wet, which will help incorporate the urea into the soil and prevent the ammonia gas it releases from escaping. Finally, till the urea into the top layer of the soil so its fully incorporated. For more advice from our Horticulturist co-author, like how to mix urea with other fertilizers, read on.
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