Newbie Off-Grid Solar questions

First off, I'm a newbie and still researching and learning. My intent is to learn as much as I can, but I will probably hire someone to do my installation work. I think I have a fair sense of when it is time to hire a professional, but I like to know enough to ensure I get the right support.

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I want to build a small off-grid solar system for my shop. The shop currently has a 200 AMP service coming from the main house, which was intended to feed things like my RV and eventually another shop.

I want to have a 240 Volt system, as my well pump is connected to the shop, and I also have a 240 Volt air compressor that will eventually be installed. I have been looking at 120/240 V inverters and thinking along the lines of that.

I plan on starting out small and possibly expanding over time. I am considering starting with this inverter, 10x280W panels (used), and a couple of 100AH batteries.

From my research, I understand that neutral/ground bonding is required at the first entry point, which is ideal if I connect to the house. Since my house has the first entry point and I plan to have a disconnect at the panel in my shop, when the shop gets disconnected from the grid (via either a disconnect switch or throwing the main breaker feeding the shop), do I need to ensure that the inverter feeding the shop has a neutral/ground bond? I'm assuming yes since the inverter will now be the first point of entry for the shop.

The grid connection is currently wired with 400 AMP service to the meter on the side of the house. There is a 200 AMP feed for the main house and another 200 AMP feed to the shop. The main breaker for the shop feed is at the house (on the outside wall next to the meter). I had originally planned to just throw that breaker to disconnect the shop, but I'm thinking a disconnect is the proper way to go.

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Additionally, is it acceptable to ground the inverter to the shop's panel grounding bus? I'm assuming that the ground from the house to the shop via the existing connection is still present even if it is disconnected via a disconnect switch or breaker.

Hope this makes sense, and I appreciate any insight and learning opportunities.

Thanks

Mike

System voltages (Battery) run 12, 24, 48, with 72V and up falling under different rules regarding equipment and safety, etc.
12V/100AH provides 1.2kilo Watt hours or Watt Hours
24V/100AH provides 2.56kWh / Wh.
48V/100AH provides 5.12kWh / Wh.

Recommended Maximum Draw off battery should not exceed 250A
12V@250A = W = 120V @ 25A
24V@250A = W = 120V@50A or 240V@25A
48V@250A = 12,000W = 120V@100A or 240V@50A
* Not Corrected for inefficiencies.

A typical North American home has a 240VAC/200A Main Service Panel; some have smaller or larger Main Services.
This would require 4x 48V/W inverters paralleled to deliver 240VAC/200A.

Check your current power bill. Look at the daily average in kWh and remember that it varies throughout the year. Mid-July and December tend to be the heaviest load months, so you need to consider the maximum load months to know what to plan for and to size the battery bank accordingly.

Without knowing your "actual" energy usage, it's not possible to size a battery to support that or determine what equipment needs to be in place to deliver it.

Also, keep in mind that conservation is much cheaper than generation and storage. It's time to get rid of the old fridge that only keeps the beer cold! Old appliances like hot water tanks can be massive energy drains (like leaving a car idling in the driveway 24/7 just in case you want to go for a 10-minute ride), which is essentially what a hot water tank does, warming the water every hour... Just in case. Reducing consumption and updating appliances go hand in hand.

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