How to determine the right axle configuration for your truck

GCW, topography and assignment

When determining the right axle configuration, I think that a good starting point is to look at the gross-combination weight of your vehicle, the topography of the route and the truck&#;s mission. Alongside these three key factors, consider how your axle choices will affect fuel consumption.
 

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As a general rule, the heavier a truck is and the steeper the hills are along the route, the more torque is needed. The extra payload also means that you&#;ll need a stronger and more stable structure with more axles to distribute the added weight.
 

Axle ratios

So, how do you increase torque? With a high axle ratio. The axle ratio tells you how many turns the propshaft needs to make to spin the wheels one turn. An axle ratio of 2.64 axle, for example, means that the propshaft needs to turn 2.64 times for each wheel spin. It also means the truck can pull more weight and start on steeper hills than an equivalent truck with a ratio of 2.47, for example. But to spin the propshaft more, the engine revs need to be higher too. This means as you use more power, you&#;ll also pay a bit more at the pump.
 

Traction

It&#;s also possible to increase traction by upping the number of driven axles &#; but this is not always practical. In general, the number of axles on a truck unit depends on the local load legislation and varies between countries and applications. While 4x2 or 6x2 tractors are common for trucks with trailers in Europe, for example, 6x4 units are more commonplace in countries such as the US, for trucks with a trailer. And the number of driven axles varies between applications. While a 4x2 unit has one driven axle, a powerful 8x6 unit (sometimes used in mining applications) has three.
 

Ground clearance

Another key aspect to consider: What ground clearance do you need? To gain the ground clearance needed for rough terrain, such as in construction, mining or military applications, the driven axle can include a hub reduction. With a hub reduction, the driving power is transferred to each wheel by an additional reduction gear, built into the hub. Through this mechanism, the center gear can be made smaller, which increases ground clearance and durability, while also resulting in a less jerky drive when starting on soft ground.
 

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The hub reduction is often matched with larger tyres to raise the truck even further off the ground.  But sometimes, the opposite is needed: You might be more concerned with limiting the height of the truck, in order to travel under certain bridges, for example. In this case, you may need to avoid hub reductions entirely, limit the size of the tyres and select a lower chassis height and maximise loading weight.
 

The ultimate axle configuration specs for your vehicle will depend on a variety of factors including the gross combination weight, axle load, topography, road conditions and the application.
 

All these factors are best discussed with your sales rep. Alongside meeting your transport requirements, it&#;s also critical to consider fuel consumption, since axle specifications play a decisive role for fuel economy.
 

Blackwater boy said:

I have a redrock grain trailer with the rocking beam/bogie axles, the bogies are well worn with leaning wheels and brakes are pretty shook also. Chassis and body is decent and will last me for years more. Can the bogie axles be cut off and new sprung axles be welded on? Has anyone done this on a redrock or any grain trailer etc and if so how did it turn out? Who supplies such kits? Thanks

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Would the likes of Cronin&#;s in Churchtown South be worth asking?
The ideal would be a pair of second hand good quality lorry axles on super singles. ROR would be a good axle. Cronin&#;s or someone like that could do the conversion and it mightn&#;t be giant money.
They might be able to add air brakes with load sensing. (does your new Deere have air brakes?).
I&#;d rather go for good quality used lorry axles than the likes of the cheaper new axles.

We had a Redrock and the quality of the brakes was terrible. I remember when we got it new, the contractor looked under it and said it was a pity we didn&#;t get heavy axles. We didn&#;t know any better at the time but he was right.

New enough Smyth here and also a Gillespie which has a lot of work done. Both with load sensing air brakes. The Gillespie has ROR axles. I love pulling and stopping with the Gillespie but the Smyth is only fair in my opinion. Driving with the Gillespie is like driving with a car and it&#;s mostly down to the running gear in my opinion.

Would the likes of Cronin&#;s in Churchtown South be worth asking?The ideal would be a pair of second hand good quality lorry axles on super singles. ROR would be a good axle. Cronin&#;s or someone like that could do the conversion and it mightn&#;t be giant money.They might be able to add air brakes with load sensing. (does your new Deere have air brakes?).I&#;d rather go for good quality used lorry axles than the likes of the cheaper new axles.We had a Redrock and the quality of the brakes was terrible. I remember when we got it new, the contractor looked under it and said it was a pity we didn&#;t get heavy axles. We didn&#;t know any better at the time but he was right.New enough Smyth here and also a Gillespie which has a lot of work done. Both with load sensing air brakes. The Gillespie has ROR axles. I love pulling and stopping with the Gillespie but the Smyth is only fair in my opinion. Driving with the Gillespie is like driving with a car and it&#;s mostly down to the running gear in my opinion.

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