Hi-Tensile Fencing Tips - Some do's & dont's

Over the years, fencing is something that has intrigued me from many different perspectives. The main agricultural purpose of the fence is to hold livestock in an area that you want them in. But, there are many other factors and aspects that come into play in the building of the fence. Of all of the various types of agricultural fencing I feel very strongly that 12.5 gauge hi-tensile fencing is the best choice you can make. It is 3 to 4 times stronger, will last 3 to 4 times longer, is easy to put up and cost less to put up than any other traditional type of fencing. However, in the course of traveling around the country it is obvious that many mistakes and errors are made in its construction. Here are a few tips that I am hopeful will help you with your hi-tensile fencing endeavors. These comments are based upon permanent fencing. Our hi-tensile woven wire is some of the strongest and most conductive woven wire you can find. Some of our customers have told us their fence has withstood tree falls with barely any conductivity loss or damage to the fence. Portable fencing is another topic of it own. 

If you want to learn more, please visit our website.

- Don't attach wires tight to line posts: The wires must float past each line post. This is needed to maintain the elasticity effect - allowing the hi-tensile wire to react as it is intended to. It allows the wire to be springy and bouncy. 12.5 gauge hi-tensile wire will stretch about 2% of its length - then it will return to initial tension. We must allow this to happen! Now 2% doesn't sound like much, but it amounts to 27 feet in a quarter mile. It becomes "super beneficial" under circumstances such as: trees or limbs falling on fence, wildlife, feral animals running livestock thru fences, etc. We must allow the wire to pass thru all line post connections.

- Different gauges of fence wire: It really is best to use the same gauge of wire thru-out your system. There is this thing called resistance. The electric pulse travels down your fence wires and every place there is a joint or connection, a little resistance is created. Also if the wire is rusty, the rust itself creates resistance. 17 gauge wire has much more resistance than does 12.5 gauge. Its kind of like water in a pipe, in that you wouldn't run a mile of 1/2" pipe then switch to 1" pipe then back to 1/2" pipe would you? I know, I know, you have this roll of old wire that you bought at a sale years ago and you want to use it. It's a little rusty, it may be 20 years old, but you want to use it. You will be much better off to just spend 2 cents a foot and buy new 12.5 hi-tensile wire.

- Over-tensioning hi-tensile wire: Hi-tensile wire needs only between 150 to 200 pounds of tension. If you are used to putting up barbed wire, then you would normally put about 300 to 350 pounds of tension on it. So, don't over tension hi-tensile wire. This is normally the last step in putting up your fence. As you tension the wire, just watch the sag between line posts.you don't need to take all the sag out of it. In a 40 foot line post spacing it is OK to have 1 to 2" of sag between posts. The exception here is with a goat or sheep fence where you have a wire only 6" off the ground. In this case you may need the 200 pounds to keep the wire clear of the ground with uneven terrain.

- Poor quality line post insulators: This is probably the largest area of failure (and frustration) for electric fencing. You can buy quality insulators for $7 / bag of 25, or you can buy cheap ones for $3 a bag. Darker colors last longer. Stay clear of yellow insulators. Good ones usually have a 10 year warranty and cheap ones do not have a warranty. One failed insulator on a steel post will cause your whole system to lose effectiveness. Why take the chance?

- Inadequate energizer: I am an advocate of trying to have from 8 to 10 KV on my fence. That means that you will have good voltage year around. It's not hard to have 10,000 volts in early spring when the grass/vegetation load is low, but you need to be able to maintain good voltage in May & June when the vegetation load is heavy and wet. If you go from 10KV to 8KV &#; you are still in good shape. But if you go from 6KV down to 3KV in May, then you may have problems. Although a $500 to $800 energizer sounds like a lot of money (and it is) in most cases when you look at the total length of fence is will likely figure in at less than a penny a foot.

- Inadequate grounding: Yes, you do need to install adequate grounding for your energizer, no matter how large or small the energizer. A good rule of thumb is to have a minimum of 3 feet or ground rod for each output joule of the charger. Example: a 10 output joule charger will need a minimum of 30 feet of ground rods, or 5 each 6 foot rods. You can get by with ground off to t- posts or such things when it is wet out &#; but when it gets dry it will fail to be enough. You need that 6 foot depth to get into good moisture. The rods should be spaced a minimum of 10 feet apart in an area of permanent moisture.

- Building new fences beside old fences: Old fences normally have broken wires and tangles of repairs that can get into a new electric fence built too close to the old fence. If it is out of question to remove the old fence, then at least walk it many times over looking for loose and potential problems. I have done this many times with customers and invariably we will find an old piece of wire neatly hidden that is shorting out the new fence. Amazing how invisible old rusty barbed wire can be in a bed of leaves, forage and vines. And a short does not always emit a loud pop or spark. The old long duration chargers did, but the newer more powerful ones with short pulse duration do not.

- Line post selection: When choosing the type of line post that you will use &#; try to think of it over a 20 year period rather than the cost per each post on that day of purchase! And although you may have used steel t-post all your life, just remember that "steel is the enemy" with electric fencing. If you do decide to use steel t-post, just remember to use the best quality insulator that you can get, with a 10 year warranty. Sunguard treated Fiberglass is an option.Sucker rod composite posts are and option. Powerflex composite posts are an option. All of these are all composites that are insulated and require no insulators, only cotter pin attachment. Each of these has some flexibility, allowing the wire some latitude. The sunguard treated fiberglass posts have warranties saying they will not turn yellow of sliver, however most of us know that you will still want to wear leather gloves when handling them. The sucker rods are for sure going to have slivers unless you paint them, which is time consuming. The Powerflex Posts are easy to handle and are lighter in weight. They are also more flexible and do seem to hold in the ground better with less lift out problems. Fiberglass and sucker rods would need to be pre-drilled as it is very difficult to drill them in the field. Powerflex Posts can easily be field drilled and wire spacing located where you want them. Considering that a good portion of your fence budget is consumed in line posts, it is a good idea to consider the options and weigh out the longevity of each.

- Train your livestock to electric fences: Training animals to electric fence is a very easy thing to do and in most cases takes less than a day in a smaller enclosure before turning them out into the paddocks system. If you are going to be bringing new animals into your system that have never been around electric fence then you should prepare a smaller area where they can get used to it without getting out; with cattle usually one good shock is all it takes, with goats maybe a few more. The shock registers in the brain of the animal and once educated they will remember for a long, long time. This training area should have good power on the fence to ensure that they leave with a lasting memory.

- Don't just assume everything is working: Yes, electric fences do need to be checked periodically. Normally, every time you check on your livestock you are going to want to check your voltage on your fences as well. You can not do this without a voltmeter. It's a must have with electric fencing &#; you need to know what the voltage is. Some voltmeters also will show current which will additionally help you find shorts or faults that arise. As you grow with your system, you will begin learning what to look for with your voltage and should problems arise, you will be able to quickly resolve it.

- Nicked, kinked or dented wire: If you do get nicks or kinks in your wire during installation &#; you need to remedy it then. If the wire gets a kink in it during payout, then you should go ahead and cut it and install a crimp. Otherwise it may break at the most opportune time, when you don't have time to repair it.
Same thing on dented wire, For example, you get sloppy installing a crimp sleeve and your crimp tool puts a dent or craze in the coating &#; you may as well fix it on the spot as it again may break later. If the class III coating gets damaged &#; it is a weak point so fix it. Hi-tensile wire has a very high breaking point of to pounds &#; but it needs to be installed cleanly and correctly.

- Product installed incorrectly: Yes believe it or not this happens all the time. One pet peeve of mine is with end strain insulators. There is a right way and a wrong way and I have seen my share of the wrong way. The wire needs to pull thru the mass of the insulator &#; not thru the little hole in the end. If you are in doubt &#; then ask someone. The only dumb question is the one you didn't ask.

- Electrical connections: I think this area is one that needs to be discussed more. I see a lot of people just wrapping a jumper wire around the fence wire. I also see a lot of these that will arc and give a pretty poor electrical connection. There are a lot of good quality crimps, split bolts, taps, etc that do a good job for very little money. As the pulse flows down and around the fence wire there is resistance created with wire wraps. This is not a problem at the ends where you may want to hand knot your wire to an insulator...but on the fence wire that you are transmitting an electronic pulse you need a good connection on your jumpers. I've noticed that you many times read 1 to 4 amps (leakage) at each wrapped connection. That's not much, but when you add them all up, then it does make your voltage drop, simply due to resistance.

I hope these general comments help you with working with hi-tensile wire. I strongly feel it is the best fence you can put up for any type of livestock. As you progress with it, you will be amazed that only a single strand will keep cattle where you want 'em.

Dozer

Posted 4/14/ 21:21 (#)
Subject: High tensile fence....right application?

Southern Iowa

Is it practical to use HT smooth wire fence (6 or 7 strand?) for cattle without any hot wires?

Never built any before ...always barb. Considering that we have very rolling ground with nurmerous ditches with water gaps, will I have problems keeping the wire tensioned?
Is it best to use all wood?

Could insulate one wire if needed for electric. KLo

Posted 4/14/ 21:25 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

Northeast, NE

Northeast, NE

If you are going to make one hot you might as well make every other one hot. Mine are 5 strand- 2-3-5 are hot 1-4 ground. Going forward I plan to make new fences 3 high with only the middle being hot. Dave EOh

Posted 4/15/ 04:48 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

Eastern Ohio

I've got 6 strands 2 hot, up hills, down hills thru woods, gully and ditches, This works best in my operation. Last 2 weeks with the high winds trees have fallen on it in several places, just take a chain saw and start cutting limbs, watch out when you get to the last piece, the wire will shoot it out like a sling shot. Most of the time I don't even have to retighten the wire, just replace a few staples. heinz57

Posted 4/15/ 06:56 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

NW Wisconsin

If you're doing 6 or 7 wires you could get away with not having any juice to it but I don't know why you would want to.
By having just 1 wire hot you'll keep cattle from pushing on fence. Jim

Posted 4/15/ 07:22 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

Driftless SW Wisconsin

Suggestions: Use a spring and tightener near the middle of each section to provide correct, not excessive, tension. 6 wires should be plenty for cattle. Use good size wood posts in the low points especially, you may need to put a sack of concrete in the hole to hold it down. I would electrify one wire, maybe 3rd one up, so cows don't try to push through to get that blade of grass on the other side and also so you have a place to tap off power for cross wires when subdividing the pasture into paddocks and possibly rotationally graze.

Fenceman

Posted 4/15/ 07:48 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

NE

It depends. Hi tensile will work from one wire hot all the way up to 12 wire feedlots, it all depends on your management and the risk you're willing to live with (which depends on how your cattle behave). Only you know that risk level.
I sense you don't want to have to deal with a hot wire for unknown reason? Many guys don't, on the other hand many guys live off of hot wire(s) capability, so to each of their own. I built hi tensile commercially for 27 years, always recommended at least one hot to the owner even if he didn't think he'd ever use it. My thought was you don't know how your next bull is going to act or the new heifers/cows you don't have yet...if you get ornery ones a hot wire is a wonderful tool to teach a lesson, but with that said a hot wire on this new fence and nowhere else is like peeing in the wind because your new fence is only as good as your worst fence in that pasture? I used wood only line posts, most of my guys wanted long term fences with least risk for the money. 90% of the fences I built were 9 wire, yep 9 wire... Why? Because wire is the cheapest part of your fence (.02/ft) why cut corners when its cheap? .06/ft makes your 6 wire a 9 wire so you can space the wires 5" equal spaces, 1) that reduces cows wanting to reach through, 2) if a dog or something scares the cattle your chances of retaining the cows in is much higher when they run into it, 3) the closer spacing's make it less risky for calves getting out. It's no fencing secret...end & corners built right is priority, line post spacing (closer the stronger) and number of wires each play a significant role in a good fence, it all depends what 'your' comfort level is. Ask 100 guys and you'll get 95 different answers, fence debates is and always will be far worst than Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge debates, they all will work & fail...so do fences.

You'll love HT versus barb wire in rolling ground and water gaps. I'm allergic to barb wire, all it ever did for me was tear clothes and me up and give cows something to scratch on. You'll need to anchor down your line posts in the 'dip' areas and double staple them correctly .
Good luck in your decision.
Fenceman oldtiger

Posted 4/15/ 07:50 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

NEMO

Since nobody answered your question directly, I will. The answer is no. It might work for a little while, and I'm sure somebody does it without electricity, but for the vast majority of cow guys, if you don't put some juice in it, the cows will soon have it loose , and of course there's always that one cow that will get through, leading the rest of them. Plan on the worst case Boatman

Posted 4/15/ 08:51 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

S KY

The only way it would be practical, would be a post every three or four feet, or a twist in stay or wood batten tied in on close centers. If you went this route, you'd essentially be making woven wire, which seems to be a waste of energy seeing as how it's so easy to get your hands on a roll of the pre woven stuff. Just my opinion, but high tensile fixed knot woven wire is more efficient than any other type of permanent fencing. You can space your posts out, and stretch it tighter than what you'd ever dream on a suitable set of braces.....If you buy good wire to start with. FWIW, I've been a fence contractor for the majority of my adult life.....and I'm no spring chicken. Ben

Posted 4/15/ 08:54 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

North Mo.

Additional resources:
Making a fence climb proof
Advantages of Galfan Gabions
Frequently Asked Questions

Goto Mclassic Metal to know more.

Is it practical to use HT smooth wire fence (6 or 7 strand?) for cattle without any hot wires?
Well I guess so but it better be really tight. That means large wooden post in valleys and corners to die for. In Mo. at least I have seen the old cow leaning thru a old barb fence to get that one blade of fresh grass on the other side. Well pic. that as smooth wire that is a bit loose at least she won't be leaning thru cause she will be out.
Now that I have answered your questions let us discuss fence. First is this a perimeter fence or interior? Is there a reason juice can not be supplied better be a darn good one? All these people say two wires hot and not the others, yes I can see that if there is a grounding problem otherwise its like a fella used to a manual tranny and buys a automatic but still shifts it. We rent a 200 that has a one wire hot the rest barb and it has been a nightmare when aged a bit. Finally 2 days ago I check one system was showing volts so on the next day which was nice I rode the atv around part of this system and found 3 pinlocks off the post and wire touching the post. This was originally a 2 wire fence keeping cattle off the crop ground built say 30 years ago,now days both sides are pasture however sheep have entered the pic and the bottom wire is open season for the ewes and they knock the pinlocks off. Would not happen with a fiber/plastic/ or a hedge post with a eye lag screw, but no such thing in the old days.
Best wishes smoker

Posted 4/15/ 09:02 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

Frederick, Md

6 with 3 hot here. Works great as long as it has juice. The minute it looses juice the cattle will push on it. So I'd say you would not be happy with no wires hot.

Neighbor has 7 wires none hot and his cattle always have their heads through the wires. jd

Posted 4/15/ 09:11 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

West Central IA

How well does the HT wire stand up to snow drifts along a road? I have more than a mile of road fence to put in and would like something that can handle some snow and not be in the dirt after a couple of winters with lots of snow. Fenceman

Posted 4/15/ 09:23 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

NE

HT for snow issues is best you can use, simply isn't enough resistance to catch on....plus if you watch it, it's usually is vibrating in the wind and flexing some which in your concern is a good thing. rpc

Posted 4/15/ 09:54 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

+1. Also in the dips consider a 6" x 10 foot post driven 6 feet in the ground, it will never move. Or I place used concrete floor sections with some space in between each layer, lets the water flow keeps the cattle in, lets you run the fence a little more level. Ron Fenceman

Posted 4/15/ 09:59 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

NE

Out of curiosity what do you suggest for post spacing with the HT fixed knot? You state 'space your posts out' not sure what that means but have a feeling that could be misleading to many reading on this topic?

I think one of the biggest misconceptions of HT fence is what Kiwi originally sought out to do with it long ago. It was meant to be a permanent high breaking strength tight fence. So in other words 200# /wire when completed and maintained. Today, producers have made HT wire a glorified electric fence wire, don't tighten it much and have to rely on electric. I have found clients that tightened it properly & kept it that way have way less issues than the ones who run it not to specs. I have plenty of 2-3 wire paddock fences, works well but all perimeter is 9 wire 15 OC permanent built cattle fence. IF built correctly and maintained correctly I'll argue its a tough system to beat. No other wire has -# breaking strength, is as forgiving in weather and tree damage and very easily maintained. In my opinion barb and woven doesn't come close to longevity or strength or non rusting ability. I'll tighten two clicks on a strainer every other year any day versus unstaple, retighten or redo a loose barb or woven wire fence constantly. Just my years experience and frustrations of fencing. Once again I'll say it MUST be built properly or producers shouldn't use HT as they won't be happy, as is true with any type of fence, construction is everything and unfortunately as we already know everybody has the best system in the world in building fence.....so the debate lives on .

Boatman

Posted 4/15/ 11:39 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

S KY

We run a 30' post spacing on a regular basis, and I've seen and touched 50' that looked good and worked well for it's intended purpose. Generally, the situation dictates the design. It can be a challenge to convince a customer, especially an older one, of the benefits of a smaller gauge yet higher tensile strength wire, but when you tell them that you can build a GOOD net wire fence for the same cost as slick wire or barbed wire, they generally come around. With a solid vertical stay wire, we have stretches over a quarter mile stand up with nothing but some tension.
Tensile strength and rust resistance are not necessarily related. A Class III low carbon 9 gauge wire will outlast a Class I high tensile 12 gauge wire in most every environment where any kind of moisture is present, even though it has a lower breaking load. The quality and standard of galvanize, or equivalent coating, is what prevents corrosion. The carbon content is the major factor in deciding the strength of the wire. To say that woven or barb don't come close to the longevity or strength would certainly lead me to believe that you are comparing low carbon class I products to a high carbon class III slick wire, and that's not a fair comparison. You can't compare Red Brand or Oklahoma Wire to the likes of Tornado or Stay Tuff. It's like comparing the ol' rotary wall hanger to an IPhone. Can you make a call on the rotary? Sure, but it really limits the options.
Same goes for barbed wire. You just can't lump them all in together like that. 12.5 gauge Class I 2 point with 8" barb spacing is not the same animal as 14 gauge HT Class III reverse twist 4 point with a 4" barb spacing. Apples and spaceships.
Take it a step further, and look into the manufacturing techniques of each wire maker, and you'll find a wild variety of quality in what is supposed to be a very similar product. Beckaert is notorious for slack line wires in their net wire, so what keeps them from having two different tensile strengths of wire in a barbed product? The short answer is nothing. Stay Tuff is better by a long shot, but still generally has a 20-30% swing in tension of line wires. To each their own, but we switched to Tornado a couple years ago, and the quality difference is night and day. It costs more, and you can't buy it at the local discount farm store, but after 20+ years of fencing for a living, I've eliminated the customers that want a temporary fence installed.
With all due respect, a 9 line slick wire perimeter fence is easy to beat. Can it be beat with a Class I low carbon light gauge hinge joint from TSC? Not a chance. Try some decent HT fixed knot, and I'll just bet you'd like it. It'll take a tree just the same as slick wire. Fence technology is fluid, and in my opinion, plain wire fences are outdated. One last thing.......Everybody does not have the best fencing system. It's just me. LOL
Fenceman

Posted 4/15/ 12:02 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

NE

Thanks for reply. We'll have to agree to disagree. I have cow/calf clients that any fence on 50' centers their cows would have it ruined in matter of months especially on rolling hill pastures. 30' would still be challenged. I agree wire quality is very variable , that is why I only use only Kiwi Max Ten 200. Have some in on own farm now for over 40 years, looks about the same as day we put it in.
Local young builder is using the HT fixed knot for some situations... he has already stated to me some love it, some already hate it. It might be OK for sheep/goat but his cattle guys are not happy for the most part unless he puts electrified on the top and he used 20' OC.
It amazes me how many guys are using 20' continuous fence panels in pastures hoping its a one and done deal !! Crazy expensive fence in my mind but as we know the customer is always right even if you can prove him wrong.
Take Care. Boatman

Posted 4/15/ 12:02 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

S KY

We keep with the same sized line post in the low spots, but drive another at an angle right at the base of the line post, and bridle it with 9 gauge. The deadman post goes all the way in, so you end up with an 8' x 3-1/2' Y underground. With pipe posts, we just weld it. ak47

Posted 4/15/ 17:48 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

The desert of south central neb

oldtiger - 4/15/ 07:50

Since nobody answered your question directly, I will. The answer is no. It might work for a little while, and I'm sure somebody does it without electricity, but for the vast majority of cow guys, if you don't put some juice in it, the cows will soon have it loose , and of course there's always that one cow that will get through, leading the rest of them. Plan on the worst case

I second this it will work for a while but there will be that one that will test it and it will be on the ground. School Of Hard Knock

Posted 4/15/ 18:28 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

just a tish NE of central ND

Why no hot? Just do it right the first time and add some shock to some wires and it will work good for you.There are a lot of cattle held in a single wire that is hot. JRthefarmer

Posted 4/15/ 18:49 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

SESD

SESD

I like a 5 wire for most perimeter. From ground-12", then 8, 9, 10, and 11 spacing or something. Wood posts on 30' is nice. Put 2 bottom closer together so animals have a small gap. 2nd wire hot. 4th wire hot as well. Boatman

Posted 4/15/ 19:43 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

S KY

http://www.farmfencetalk.co.uk/

If you really want differing opinions, this is the place to go. LOL I sure do like continuous fence for pens and a feedlot, but I didn't think there was enough money in cattle to use it for pasture fence. Must be bankers.
Dozer

Posted 4/16/ 08:47 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Thanks for the replies

Southern Iowa

Thanks for the replies....
Never been around HT smooth fence so I wasn't sure how much the cattle would push through it if it doesn't have at least one hot wire.  I don't have electricity nearby so it would have to depend on solar / battery fencer.

Woven wire is a problem here if you're not super diligent about keeping it clean of brush.....turn your back and you've got cedar & hedge trees grown up through the wire that you can't cut out.

Deer are hard on low carbon barb wire...they catch the top wires and either pop staples & clips, or stretch & break the wire.  They'd probably still pop staples but at least they probably won't break HT wire.

I like the idea of how fast it is to attach all the HT strands and then tension the wire......might take me a little while to learn how to make knots right.
Sounds like the HT would require an all wood fence, which will take longer.  Normally use hedge posts so would be drilling holes rather than driving posts.

Guess I'll have to just pick a section of fence and try it out.

Jim

Posted 4/17/ 07:12 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Thanks for the replies

Driftless SW Wisconsin

Even if you don't have electricity near nor plan to use a fencer in the near future, on a new HT fence I would still put the middle wire on insulators when I build the fence. Plans might change in the future.

Honest

Posted 4/18/ 23:41 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: High tensile fence....right application?

Iowa

Are you interested in learning more about Double Wire Fence? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Our ground is also rough. We use hedge corners with hedge or good quality other treated posts alternating with metal. Then four strands of barbed wire, the Gaucho wire, it stretches nice, and then we put a high tensile hot wire at nose height on a longer standoff. They don&#;t get in the fence much. We have some hedge posts we are reusing put in the 40&#;s.