Selecting an Anchor Windlass

After struggling to haul up the anchor by hand in challenging conditions during your last vacation, you've decided that investing in a new anchor windlass for your boat is a necessity. But with so many options available, making the right choice can be daunting. This guide will help you understand the key factors you need to consider before purchasing your new anchor windlass.

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What size windlass should I choose?

Choosing the correct size windlass is crucial for your boat's performance. Consider boat length, anchor weight, and the type of rope or chain used. While windlasses are generally rated for specific boat lengths, your particular scenario might necessitate a higher capacity. Understanding these elements will ensure your anchor windlass can handle the toughest conditions.

Here are core factors to keep in mind as you select your windlass:

• Anchor Size – How much does your anchor weigh? A 75-pound anchor requires significantly more power to retrieve than a 30-pound one.
• Rode – How much chain or rope is connected to your anchor, and how much does it weigh? The greater the weight, the more pulling power you will need.
• Vessel Displacement – The material of your boat (fiberglass, steel, etc.) impacts how much power you’ll need, especially in rough conditions or during retrieval.
• Vessel Windage – High cabins or large structures increase wind resistance, necessitating more substantial pulling power, particularly in windy conditions.

A general rule of thumb is to calculate the weight of your ground tackle (anchor, chain, and rope) when not under load and then select a windlass with at least three times the pulling power of that weight.

For instance, if you have a 55-pound Rocna anchor along with 150 feet of 3/8" HT chain and 200 feet of 5/8" 3-strand nylon rope, the total weight is around 305 pounds. For optimal performance, you’ll need a windlass with at least 915 pounds of pulling power (305 x 3). If you have a heavier boat or experience high windage, consider upsizing for additional reliability and longevity.

Horizontal or Vertical?

Your choice between a horizontal and vertical windlass should not be solely based on appearance. Constraints such as your boat’s chain locker might limit your choices. Here’s a closer look at both types:

Horizontal windlasses have a traditional appearance and sit entirely above deck. This visibility makes them easier to maintain, but they also occupy precious deck space and can complicate bow operations. Surface mounting simplifies installation and conserves space in small or shallow chain lockers.

Horizontal models generally grip around a quarter of the chain wheel's (gypsy) circumference. It's essential to match the chain size precisely to avoid issues. A minimum "fall" of 12" from the gypsy to the top of the piled-up rode ensures enough weight to pull the rode into the locker. More fall is beneficial when dealing with rope portions. Horizontal windlasses can manage better if the bow roller is positioned higher than the chain wheel, such as on a sailboat bowsprit.

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Vertical windlasses usually have their motor installed below deck, presenting a sleek "low profile" look. While safer from environmental exposure, they can suffer from increased corrosion risks due to damp and salty below-deck conditions. This location can make yearly maintenance more difficult ("out of sight, out of mind").

Vertical windlasses require a minimum "fall" of 18" from the deck’s underside to the top of the rode pile for proper operation. The chain grasps about half of the gypsy’s circumference, enabling better chain control and reducing the risk of jumping. Such models suit boats with larger, deeper chain lockers, but professional installation might be necessary due to their through-deck fitting.

Both horizontal and vertical windlasses can come with or without a capstan drum for handling a second rode, halyard, or tow rope. Each type has particular advantages and disadvantages, and ultimately, your boat’s layout and anchor locker will likely dictate the most suitable choice.

Manual, Hydraulic or Electric?

Finally, decide if you want a powered or manual windlass. For powered options, you’ll need to choose between electric (DC) or hydraulic systems:

• Manual – Ideal for small boats with limited battery capacity, manual windlasses rely on human power and are excellent for aiding anchor retrieval in tough conditions. Available in circular motion models (like a winch) or back-and-forth motion types (like a lever), they provide a mechanical advantage without using electrical power, saving wear on your back.
• Electric – Popular due to easy installation and operation with just a button or switch. However, they depend on your battery’s power, often requiring a dedicated battery to meet power needs, especially given the bow's distance from the battery bank.
• Hydraulic – Though complex to install, hydraulic windlasses offer constant power without battery depletion concerns, provided the main engine is running. If you don’t have existing hydraulics, it’s best to consult a professional for installation advice.

When choosing a windlass, account for your boat's anchoring configuration and ensure it has enough pulling power for your ground tackle. If the pulling power is near its limit, opt for a larger size to reduce windlass strain and extend its service life.

Fisheries Supply offers a wide range of anchor windlasses from renowned manufacturers such as Lewmar, Lofrans, Maxwell, Muir, Powerwinch, Quick, and Vetus. We also provide various windlass accessories to complete your setup. This guide aims to help you understand the essentials for choosing a new windlass anchor – whether manual, hydraulic, or electric – including control options like remote panels for helm, flying bridge, or cockpit operation.

If you have further questions, our product experts are available at (800) 426-6930. For more information on windlass operation, read our Navigator on Using Your Windlass.

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