Using PVC for deep well drop pipe

I have a problem with my sewer drain or what I think is the sewer drain (I think its the sewer drain because when I cleaned it there was sewer like residue on the top portion of the drain). Everytime it rains whether it a light rain or heavy, the water runs back up into my basement. I have a sump pump on the other side that eventually gets this water out. I called the city sewer dept. and they came out and found the drain was clogged so they fix that. But when it rained the very next day the water returned. I called again and they told me that there was nothing they could do about it and recommended that I get a backflow prevention device. They also recommened that I cap it off....but I was informed that will just cause the water to come up from another place like my toilet or sink. Any suggestions? Who would I get this backflow device from?

Goto SINCO to know more.

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59 wagon man said:

use pvc ,less restriction internally, will be harder for roots to crush, jmho

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Glad you put jmho on that. It's exactly that, not factual at all. In fact, plain backasswards. It's easy to research it, I'm putting in one link that discusses PVC vs HDPE quite well, although in the context of golf course irrigation, not house water supply. The principles and conclusions are the same, though.

http://www.hydrogold.org/jgp/pdf/hb__hdpe_vs_pvc_pipe.pdf

The primary problem with HDPE is cost, particularly of fittings. They are expensive if done right. For a run without branches, HDPE wins every time in cost and features comparison, because the extra cost is not that great. If there's a lot of fittings, cost becomes much more of an issue, and PVC's cheap fittings become a real advantage; balancing out the HDPE advantages.

There is absolutely no question that HDPE wins in durability. And, because of the lack of fittings/joints, it has LESS internal friction/restriction, although on paper the HDPE is slightly rougher. In pipe networks, we calculate it as exactly the same friction coefficient, because the lack of fittings gives it a slight edge that balances out the extra roughness. Being able to make slight bends with it instead of angle fittings further lowers the friction losses. Crushing strength and abrasion resistance is where HDPE really shines. Roots and rocks and such, it will be there years after PVC has failed.

A lot of the misconceptions on HDPE comes from people that have seen cheap black plastic pipe that homeowners that are looking for the lowest price material have installed. That LDPE material crushes, splits, cracks, etc. The pipes look the same, but have entirely different characteristics. That's why I've been very particular in my recommendation to get 200 psi or greater NSF approved HDPE. Not, the cheap, homeowner grade black plastic pipe. Difference in cost on 1" is about from $.25 for LDPE to about $1 for HDPE a foot. Difference in value is between $0 and $1 per foot. The LDPE is absolutely worthless for anything other than a cheap and easily repaired temporary line.

Glad you put jmho on that. It's exactly that, not factual at all. In fact, plain backasswards. It's easy to research it, I'm putting in one link that discusses PVC vs HDPE quite well, although in the context of golf course irrigation, not house water supply. The principles and conclusions are the same, though.The primary problem with HDPE is cost, particularly of fittings. They are expensive if done right. For a run without branches, HDPE wins every time in cost and features comparison, because the extra cost is not that great. If there's a lot of fittings, cost becomes much more of an issue, and PVC's cheap fittings become a real advantage; balancing out the HDPE advantages.There is absolutely no question that HDPE wins in durability. And, because of the lack of fittings/joints, it has LESS internal friction/restriction, although on paper the HDPE is slightly rougher. In pipe networks, we calculate it as exactly the same friction coefficient, because the lack of fittings gives it a slight edge that balances out the extra roughness. Being able to make slight bends with it instead of angle fittings further lowers the friction losses. Crushing strength and abrasion resistance is where HDPE really shines. Roots and rocks and such, it will be there years after PVC has failed.A lot of the misconceptions on HDPE comes from people that have seen cheap black plastic pipe that homeowners that are looking for the lowest price material have installed. That LDPE material crushes, splits, cracks, etc. The pipes look the same, but have entirely different characteristics. That's why I've been very particular in my recommendation to get 200 psi or greater NSF approved HDPE. Not, the cheap, homeowner grade black plastic pipe. Difference in cost on 1" is about from $.25 for LDPE to about $1 for HDPE a foot. Difference in value is between $0 and $1 per foot. The LDPE is absolutely worthless for anything other than a cheap and easily repaired temporary line.

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