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Nov. 04, 2024
Super Dampers
Teao Product Page
Torque Converters
Transmissions
General Racing Tips
Q: Should I use the damper retaining bolt to
hold additional pulleys and accessory drives to the
damper?
A: No! Never use your damper retaining bolt to hold
any pulleys or accessory drive equipment. The damper
retaining bolt should be used only for bolting the damper
to the crankshaft. The damper must be banked on the
crank gear and must remain tightly secured in order
to function properly. When you use a long bolt or stud
in an attempt to hold accessory drive components and
your damper, the damper will usually come loose and
walk around on the front of the crank. This will quickly
result in damage to the keyway in the crank hub, the
key in the crankshaft, and possibly the crankshaft.
Accessory drive components should be registered on the
damper face to prevent run-out and they should be retained
using the pulley mounting bolts.
Q: Can I use my externally balanced damper on my internally
balanced engine?
A: No! Many people think you can simply remove
the weight and the damper would be okay for an internally
balanced engine. This is an incorrect assumption, however.
Due to the design of the damper, when the weight is
removed the damper will not function properly and could
potentially damage your engine. Send your damper to
ATI and we can convert your damper from externally balanced
to internally balanced.
Q: Where is the part number on my damper?
A: The part number is not stamped anywhere on the damper
itself. All of the part numbers you see stamped on the
damper are for the individual parts that comprise the
damper as a whole.
Q: What you need to know about damper bolts
A: The flat head countersunk bolts used in ATIs Super Dampers require a T40 Plus Torx Bit.
If you are trying to source one yourself, this bit is also referred to as an IP40 Torx Plus
Insert Bit. Do not use a standard T40 Torx bit as it will not work and ultimately strip the
head. Remember! You must install, torque and Loctite® all bolts supplied with your Super
Damper regardless of whether or not you are bolting a pulley to the face of the damper.
Q: How do I send in my converter for a freshen-up?
A: Send your converter to: Whitestone
Road, Baltimore, MD . When sending converters to
us for a freshen-up or stall change, please make sure
that it is completely drained so transmission fluid
does not soak the box resulting in a torn box, or worse
no box at all for the converter to be delivered
in. Also, be sure to provide us with a good daytime
number where you can be reached. This will
help to ensure that your converter does not sit on the
shelf waiting to be repaired and keeping you from racing
next weekend.
Click
here to download the Converter Overhaul Form
Q: Will my stall speed change after an overhaul?
A: No! Utilizing a detailed database of converter combinations
and specifications, ATI keeps detailed records of your
converters internal dimensions, build heights
and other necessary information. The converter is then
rebuilt to the exact specifications as before, unless
you request a dimension change.
Q: What happens to the converter if I change
anything in my combination?
A: It is best to check with an ATI representative before
making the change. Something as simple as tire size
can affect torque converter performance. Gear ratio,
stroke and cam timing are the three major changes that
will alter flash characteristics. If you purchase another
car, engine or transmission, your torque converter can
be sent back to ATI to update it to the new specifications.
If you switch from a Powerglide to a Turbo or Turbo
to Glide, the splines can be changed inside the converter.
You will need all the specifications on the new combination
before ATI works on your converter.
Click
here to download the Converter Spec Sheet
Q: Where is the serial number on my torque converter?
A: ATI torque converters have serial numbers
stamped across the snout of the converter (the part
that goes up against the back of the crank). Note: In January 1, ATI started stamping the number on the side of one of the mounting pads so the customer can see the number when it's installed in the car.
Any other
numbers stamped on the converter are foreign numbers
and usually mean that another manufacturer has worked
on the converter.
Q: What is the deal with big block converters?
A: With the advent of affordable 4-1/4, 4-3/8
and 4-1/2 stroke big block Chevy cranks, and
the resulting increases in torque and horsepower, has
come the increasing need for more efficient converter
designs. If your current or future engine combination
is based on a long stroke crank, dont forget
that the torque converter may need to be modified or
changed to harness the additional power.
Q: How do I determine my stall speed - is it different
than flash?
A: In order to check your torque converters stall
speed, put your vehicle in high gear and drive the car
at 1 to 2 miles per hour. Push the gas pedal to the
floor and note your flash on the torque. This is the
same as your stall speed. DO NOT DO STALL TESTS
ON CARS EQUIPPED WITH TRANSBRAKES. When speaking
with your ATI sales rep or distributor, be as succinct
as possible regarding stall speed and your converter.
To converter builders, stall speed and flash mean the
same thing. If you ask for stall, this means if
you flash your converter from idle, it should go to
approximately rpm. For example, a torque converter
in your car will probably only footbrake to rpm
before moving your car depending on the quality of your
brakes. Furnishing as much information as possible to
your sales rep ensures that you get the correct product
you are looking for.
Q: Should I do a stall test?
A: No!! ATI strongly recommends that you do not conduct
stall tests. Stall tests break parts, and not just converter
and transmission parts. Remember, you are at Wide-Open
Throttle (full power) and maximum load. The pistons,
pins, rods, and crank will really take a beating.
Many racers ask why it is okay to leave the line at
Wide-Open throttle, but not okay to do stall tests.
The difference is this when at the starting
line at wide-open throttle, you release the brake and
the RPMs accelerate from that point. In the converter,
the stator is locked via the clutch assembly (sprag)
and goes from maximum load in a controlled constant
reduction in force to zero load (free wheel) as the
car accelerates. The hydraulic forces in the converter
are directed in a smooth and efficient manner for maximum
torque multiplication and flow for adequate cooling.
When performing a stall test at wide-open throttle (or
even with a rev limiter such as the MSD Two-Step), you
lift off the throttle and the RPMs, now at 5,000 or
6,000, get jerked down to idle. The stator and clutch
assembly goes from maximum load and torque multiplication
to zero load in an instant. The clutch is unloaded rapidly
and the hydraulic forces are instantly disrupted into
unknown flow paths due to the rapid reduction in torque.
We have seen many converters damaged by this rapid unloading
when a ring and pinion, planetary gear set, or input
shaft fail. The rampant hydraulic pressure actually
breaks the pump blades (fins) completely off the converter
pump.
It is for this reason that converter manufacturers have
for years warned against snagging the slicks
coming out of the water as RPMs can go from 5,000 or
6,000 to an idle as the tires catch. Once again, damage
can be done to the sprag assembly. Also remember that
the converter builds up a tremendous amount of heat
in a short period of time. By not running an engine
after a stall test, all that heated fluid lays in the
converter without having a chance to go through the
cooler. Excessive heat eventually fatigues
the metals in the converter.
So, just say no to stall tests. They damage parts. Use
the transbrake ON THE STARTING LINE ONLY not
in the pits, not in the driveway, not for your burnouts
AT THE STARTING LINE ONLY! Your cost per run
will diminish significantly.
Q: What type of fluid should I use in my transmission?
A: ATI recommends Type F in all Powerglides
and Manual Operation TH350, TH400, TF904, TF727, C4
and C6 units. If you are a Street Rodder with under
450 HP then fresh Dexron Mercon 3 is a fine choice as
well. ATI only recommends Super
F if you want to run a Full Synthetic transmission
fluid. If you are running a turbocharged or high horsepower engine, consider using ATIs new 30 weight Max Duty Super F ATF. Its a 100% mPAO based synthetic and provides better lubrication than straight hydraulic oil. Great for Hyrdamatics, Powerglides, C-4s, C-6s and Torqueflites.
Q: What affects my stall speed?
A: Stall speed is affected by engine size,
stroke and even camshaft duration. Small changes in
engine combination can change the stall speed. At ATI,
we custom design each converter to your needs. With
the exception of our 10, 11, and 12-inch street converters,
each race converter is hand built one at a time for
individual applications.
Q: Should I install a transmission temperature
gauge and a transmission pressure gauge?
A: Yes. The information your racecar
shares with you is highly dependent upon the gauges
you install. Two commonly overlooked, but very informative
gauges, are transmission temperature and transmission
pressure.
Transmission temperature is important in determining
that sufficient heat has been built to send the car
to the starting line. Over time, a range of average
operating temperatures can be established for before
run and after run readings. Transmission
temperature can be an important factor in your search
for ultimate performance and/or consistency. Any excessive
high or low temperature condition should be noted, and
might help to indicate a present or future problem.
The addition of a transmission pressure gauge can not
only reinforce what the temperature gauge is telling
you, but also provides information about instant damage,
and normal operating wear occurring in the transmission.
For a transmission temperature gauge, look for one offering
a high range of about 225-250 degrees. Ideally, the
sending unit should be located in the pan to provide
the most stable source of temperature. If a dedicated
transmission pressure gauge is not available, an engine
oil pressure gauge offering about 200PSI will work well.
Most popular transmission used in drag racing, both
late and early, have pressure sources that are ideally
suited for this purpose. While originally provided for
temporary dealer diagnostics, it can also be plumbed
to provide a permanent information source. Your ATI
technician can supply you with further details.
Q: What are the benefits of low gear sets for 3-speed
automatics?
A: One of the most effective improvements
that a performance street vehicle can utilize is a lower
first gear set for the transmission. When such a 2.75
gear set is installed in a T400, T350, C-4, C-6 TF-727
or TF-904, it allows a conservatively geared 3.50 ratio
car to launch with the potential of a 3.90 rear gear.
Likewise, when a 4.10 rear ratio is present, the 2.75
low gear allows the car to accelerate with much more
aggressive potential of a 4.56. Highway RPM in third
gear is unchanged from stock. These gear sets have shown
as much as a 3 tenths improvement in overall ET
often half of which occurring in the first 60 feet.
Q: What is the proper transmission / flexplate
clearance?
A: The clearance between the transmission
and the flexplate should be checked on every torque
converter when it's installed. Clearance should be a
minimum of .100" but no more than .175" throughout.
Q: Should I soak my friction materials
before I install them?
A: Never install dry friction materials!
Always soak clutches and bands for at least 30 minutes
prior to installation. Soaking allows the friction materials
to be fully impregnated with oil preventing glazing
while adding to the life of the friction material.
Q: How important is it to center my transmission
and converter behind my engine?
A: It is critical to maintain a straight centerline
from your engine crankshaft through to your converter
and transmission. If your transmission and converter
are NOT centered, internal parts may experience costly
premature wear. Factors that cause misalignment include
engines that have been line-bored with the crankshaft
sunk in the block, flexplates and converters that are
out of round or unbalanced or even a flexplate that
does not flex. Internal converter and
transmission components must be bored to center themselves
in line with the engine crankshaft.
Q: How hot is too hot for automatic transmission
fluid?
A: In stock applications, a transmission operating at
150° to 175°, offering a service life of
miles, has its range cut in half when the temperature
increases to 195° to 200° At 295° service
life falls to only miles! In specific terms, varnishes
form at 240°, seals and sealing rings begin to harden
at 260° and friction plate slippage is unavoidable
by 295° At 350°all seals and clutches totally
burn out and conventional fluid solidifies to form carbon.
Synthetic fluids offer higher heat resistance to thermal
breakdown, but no better protection against failure
of the internal components at the stated temperature
levels.
Q: What is the proper way to warm my Powerglide?
A: Warming up a bodied car can hurt the
tailshaft bushing in a Powerglide. This bushing is only
splash lubed and will quickly run dry with the back
end of the car up in the air. If you need to warm up
the car, take it for a drive through the pits
your tailshaft bushing will thank you for it.
Q: When is the best time to check my transmission
fluid?
A: Always check your transmission fluid level after
thoroughly warming up the vehicle. Levels will read
much higher when warmed than when cold. With your car on jack stands, run
it through each gear and reverse. Then put in neutral and
check at idle. Right in the middle of L and F is perfect.
Q: How can I troubleshoot my transmission?
A: There are five things that could keep your
transmission from moving in any direction
Q: Why should I check my shifter cables?
A: Check your shifter cable in each gear! Not all shifter to bracket to transmission installs will line up perfectly in EVERY gear. This will cause burnt clutch packs in the gear that is not fully seated!
Q: How can I prolond the life of my aluminum drum?
A: When using an aluminum drum in your Powerglide transmission, it is important to change the fluid and filter regularly as well as check your band adjustment. Aluminum is lighter in weight but it also wears very quickly. A regular fluid flush and filter replacement can extend your aluminum drum life significantly. Also, always use a red-lined band with an aluminum drum. Kevlar will tear the drum up in short order.
Q: Should I monitor my line pressure
A: The line pressure of a transmission is the life blood of the transmission and is just as important as oil pressure for a motor. You should monitor the line pressure on every tranny you use.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of Gear damper for automotive Interior. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
Q: Storing a transmission
A: Rust can be a real killer when storing transmissions and converters for long periods of time. Be sure to store your units in a dry, well ventilated place with all holes capped and plugged!
Q: What is the purpose of the input shaft?
Which companies in the industry are capable of making input shafts properly? Who has the hobs, shapers and cutters to cut splines? Do they have the machines and the expertise that is required to manufacture this critical part? Can they properly heat treat it, straighten and finish grind it? Or, do they just buy it from someone and resell it? One thing is for sure: at ATI, if we have a problem, we have a REASON, not an EXCUSE, because we make it in-house from start to finish. We find the problems, not you. The bottom line is simple: Manufacturing technique for this product is critical. Material is critical. Heat-treat is critical.
Q: How much fluid do I need to add to my converter and transmission after I install it?
A: Always look for a converter to be full (generally about a quart +/-) before installing on the trans. Likewise, always fill the transmission with approximately 4 quarts of fluid +/-. And dont forget the engine, rear, etc. Its easy to do after a new build or rebuild when everything is reinstalled and ready to go.
Q: How do I calculate converter slip in low or second gear?
A: Drive shaft rpm x gear set ratio = total rpm / engine rpm=percentage of slip. If you have a converter that is too locked up it stops pulling on the engine and the car suffers from spinning on the gear change. This is because the converter needs to pull on the engine thereby producing horsepower. When a converter is too locked up, the horsepower falls off so when you shift, the full load goes onto the converter and spikes the driveshaft causing the car to spin. This is VERY dangerous for small tire cars that have a front suspension limited to no travel. Without travel to help hook the tire, the car will lose control. You can help this by shifting out of low gear sooner, but the converter will ultimately have to be changed.
Q: Why do some racers pack their carburetors
with ice?
A: Heads Up or Class racers can gain a slight elapsed
time advantage during the hot summer months by using
the age proven method of packing the intake and carburetor
in ice prior to an important run. Dual or high capacity
cool cans filled with dry ice will add
a similar, temporary gain. More recently, racers have
found that by keeping a very minimum amount of fuel
in the car, and adding cool or chilled fuel stored in
the trailer or tow vehicle immediately prior to the
run will add to the total elapsed time save. Replace
and re-circulate the engine cooling system with ambient
temperature water and you are ready for the next round,
a few hundredths of a second quicker. Some racers have
even drained the third member lube for and an extreme
situation final round only advantage, but be warned
component damage or other consequences might
result.
Q: Should I adjust my brake bias for foot-brake racing?
A: Yes. In order to get proper performance
and winning results, do not forget your cars
braking system. OEM (Original equipment manufacturer)
vehicle braking systems typically put up to 80% of the
braking bias on the front wheels. This may need to be
modified to provide more pressure to the rear tires.
Not only does this provide for better holding power
at the starting line for maximum performance and reaction
time for No-E racers, but is also provides
safer brake light racing in all forms
of ET (elapsed time) racing. When rear tire width is
often three to five times that of the front tires, front
to rear braking bias must be adjusted to ensure safe,
predictable high-speed braking.
Q: Can I damage my car doing a burnout?
A: When doing a burnout, try to avoid dry hops, tire
hop and wheel shake a major factor in broken
driveline components. Although it is not always possible,
avoiding this behavior will extend the life of many
parts in your vehicle.
Q: Should I heat up my brakes during my burnout?
A: When doing your burnout, slightly apply the break
pedal to build some heat in the rear brakes. This allows
the foot-brake racer maximum holding potential
at the starting line, and warms the brakes to boost
stopping power in all types of cars.
Q: What is the best way to heat up my tires?
A: First, spin tires slowly in water in order to get
them wet while avoiding soaking the wheel wells. Second,
pull to the front edge of the water using Low to High
for Powerglide, Low to 2nd to high for Turbo 400, Ford
C-4 and C-6, and 2nd to High only for Torqueflite and
Turbo 350. Thirdly, when the tires are hot enough, release
the line lock and power the car out of the water 5 to
10 feet and lift. Avoid hook up that will scuff tires.
Finally Stage immediately! Dry burnouts reduce
traction and consistency. If you do not believe this,
pay attention to your first dry leave behind the line.
It will hook solid every time. Small amounts of water
left on the tires will dry completely from the tire
heat long before the green comes on.
Q: Can I improve my ET by short shifting?
A: Three speed automatic transmission cars can sometimes
realize an ET gain by short-shifting the first to second
gear change. This is because there is significant rotational
resistance involved in turning the reduction planetaries.
By shifting sooner, the time period that this parasitic
horsepower loss is imposed on the engine is minimized,
freeing horsepower to the rear wheels. A similar, but
less dramatic effect may also occur on the second to
third up shift. When optimal gearing is present, the
highest RPM level reached during the run will occur
in high gear at the finish line where the least internal
transmission drag is present.
Q: Are short tires quicker?
A: The arrival of late generation performance cars brought
attention to the idea that huge, massive rear slicks
were many times not only unnecessary but also undesirable.
Twelve, eleven and ten second (and quicker) ETs have
become almost common place on modified, later model
Mustangs, Camaros and Firebirds while using only 26
28 tall tires that are 9
11 wide. The restriction of smaller wheel wells
combined with highly improved suspensions in these cars
has brought about the small tire revolution.
Remember, any car has a much stiffer effective gear
ratio with a 26 tall tire than with a 32
or 33 tall tire. Of course, using too small of
a tire will only result in wheel spin, thus a slower
60 foot and ET clocking in relation to the MPH achieved.
Q: Are tall tires faster?
A: In Bracket Racing, it is usually true that the car
should have rear tires that are large or wide enough
to prevent any wheel spin at all for absolute round
to round consistency. However, it is possible to have
tires so huge that the ability of the car to plant
the tires effectively in every launch is hindered. Likewise,
too tall of a tire is often responsible for unnecessarily
slow 60 ft and ET clockings. While taller tires can
generally produce a higher MPH reading, dragging a too
wide, too heavy slick through the finish line lights
can easily nullify a potential MPH advantage.
Q: Will my body style affect my MPH?
A: Yes. In cases where the MPH results are slow
in relation to ET and 60 foot, often there are several
possible causes. A pick up or shoebox body obviously
pushes more air than an early Corvette. However, other
bodies, such as full fendered street roadsters, are
also notorious wind catchers (3 to 5 MPH slower). Look
for a wing on a dragster to produce a similar predictable
result. Even slight changes, such as adding air to under
inflated front tires have been proven to produce a 1
to 3 MPH increase in extreme cases.
Q: What type of things can I do to gain additional
performance?
A: Experimenting with cam degree location, total distributor
advance, RPM at which the total advance occurs, carb
jetting, plug heat range, etc. may result in a two tenths
or more difference in otherwise componently identical
engines. In addition, a superior piston-ring-cylinder
wall sealing combination may provide hidden power
that provides a clear performance advantage over other
similar engines.
Q: What type of things can keep my car from
running properly?
A: A misadjusted cable shifter, a throttle which doesn't
fully open, a bad ignition wire, a foam hood seal pulled
into a carb, a crimped or clogged fuel line. We all
have personal lists of glitches that have hurt or stopped
vehicle performance over the years. Be sure to check
first the same sorts of things that you would in a street
vehicle when vehicle operation is impaired. The trickest
engine, transmission, chassis, etc. combo can be slowed
or stopped in its tracks by a broken wire connection
or less.
Q: How can I become more consistent?
A: Racers, by nature, are always looking to go quicker
and faster usually a good thing. However, if
bracket racing is your game, a week in week
out thrash to uncover the next two hundredths of a second
may be clouding other issues involving driver/vehicle
reaction and predictable, repeated performance. A successful
and well-known bracket racer once said, fix your
car and leave it alone. The major part of fix
he refers to is the installation of absolutely reliable
products such as ATI converters, transmissions and components.
Eliminate the gypsy components and let
the driver concentrate on his part of consistent performance.
Q: How can I make the most of a Test & Tune
session?
A: You can learn a lot about optimizing your race cars
performance and consistency at a test and tune session.
Choose a track that you are familiar with that offers
decent track conditions. If you are a dedicated bracket
racer, resist the temptation to thrash
your racer in an attempt to find .04 of a second. Instead,
use this opportunity to carefully monitor and record
engine and vehicle conditions prior to staging and immediately
after each run. By eliminating the pressures of actual
competition and minimizing between round maintenance/tune
up changes, you can focus on the time intervals and
procedures required to produce absolute consistency.
By integrating cooling, starting, burnout and staging
activities into a series of events, you can find the
desired gauge readings for each. Plus, it allows the
driver to prepare for the next round with confidence
under actual race conditions at readings that will most
likely produce equal results.
PaulieClick to expand...
PauliePart of it is down to how rubber works (and we are stepping away from GT here for as moment - as while it does model the following to a degree its not perfect), to maximise the grip available from a tyre you need to ensure that the forces build up rather than are just thrown at it all in one go. Click to expand...
Exactly right in terms of the visualisation side of things, but not quite right in regard to how things 'hook-up', see the next bit for that.Part of it is down to how rubber works (and we are stepping away from GT here for as moment - as while it does model the following to a degree its not perfect), to maximise the grip available from a tyre you need to ensure that the forces build up rather than are just thrown at it all in one go.To get the maximum grip (either in lateral or longitudinal terms) tyre prefer the forces to build at a steady pace rather than all arrive in one go, now in reality we are talking differences of milli-seconds, but they all count. This is something that you can experience in the real world, particularly if its been raining/snowing/very cold. If you suddenly steer you can end up loosing grip even when you know that enough grip 'should' be available, and had you been slightly more smooth and progressive with the input you would have been able to get that grip out of the tyres.Its why racing puts so much importance on the smooth application of all controls, from steering to brakes to the throttle.The same logic applies to tyres and suspension settings, too stiff a damper setting will allow the load to be placed on the contact path too quickly and as a result the rubber will not have 'time' to do its job.In reality tyres are hideously complex things, particularly when the get to having very large side-profiles (such as pro-drag and F1, etc), when the rubber actually becomes part of the suspension, having its own effective spring and damper ratings. This can have so great an effect that it can often play a major part, F1 being a classic example, in which the rear tyres are actually the dominant suspension component.What you also have (as I did mention earlier) with drag racing is also the effect torque being delivered will have on the suspension. A huge amount of torque is delivered in very quick order at the start of a drag race and the suspension has to be 'quick' enough to react to any axle bounce that may come with it, softer suspension is quicker in reaction and so can help to ensure the tyre remains in contact with the road and ensure that the load is delivered to the tyre smoothly to make the most of the grip the tyre has to offer.Edited to add - nearly forgot about this.Also you need to take into account gear-changes. No matter how quickly they are done they will cause the car to (for a very short amount of time) reduce its acceleration, which will try and shift load forward. Softer damper settings ensure this is done slowly (well as slowly as these kind of forces can be made to go) ensuring no sudden loss of load off the rear tyres. One of the last things you want in a drag race is sudden loss of rear grip (well not unless you have a great fondness for going backwards and walls).RegardsScaff
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