Fibreglass Concrete Linings & Coatings: Guide

Why choose a Fibreglass (GRP) lining for concrete?

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Concrete is an industry-standard material for many building projects. However, as a porous material concrete is not ideal for waterproofing or water containment. Indeed, extended exposure to water often leads to drastically shortened lifetimes &#; particularly in environments subjected to abrasion, impact and general wear and tear. 

Fibreglass (GRP) linings and coatings provide a significant benefit to concrete surfaces and structures. They provide waterproofing, chemical resistance, abrasion and erosion resistance. They also provide protection from physical impact and stress, making them suited to a huge range of applications. Fibreglass (GRP) also bonds extremely well to concrete, making it an excellent substrate for such applications. 

Concrete Surfaces: Applications of Fibreglass Linings & Coatings 

Linings are designed to protect the internal contents of a structure (such as fish in a pond or drinking water in a storage tank) from leaking or being contaminated by external pollutants from ground soil and porous substrates. 

Typical applications of a fibreglass lining or coating include waterproofing for ponds, walls and floors of shower rooms, wetrooms, spray-down rooms, and animal storage rooms. More specialist features centre on chemical containment spill bunds, potable water features, gutters, gullies, storage tanks and drainage channels.

Fibreglass is a high-performance waterproofing barrier. Designed to bond strongly to concrete, it offers protection from liquids and other external stressors like abrasion, impact, UV solar, vegetative growth and aggressive chemicals. Another key benefit of fibreglass is that it can be coated in a variety of topcoat resins, allowing a variety of different pigments and additives (non-slip grit, flame retardants, etc.).

The video below shows a simple overview of the process used to apply a fibreglass covering to concrete.  Please note that no surface preparation &#; namely abrasion &#; has not been performed.

How to Create a Fibreglass Lining/Coating for Concrete

The following section provides a detailed guide on how to apply fibreglass to concrete. The first part of this guide details the type of concrete which may be used, its condition and any preparation work which may be required.

In short, concrete must be sufficiently stable, clean, dry and uniform with an absence of excessively rough or sharp edges prior to fibreglassing.

Health & Safety

Fibreglassing, like any other building work, is dangerous and cautions should be taken to ensure a safe working environment is created. The table below shows some of the safety equipment which should be used.

Table 1. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Safety ItemDescription GogglesGlasses offering protection for eyes from hazardous liquids and objects Dust maskProtection from inhaled particulates that may be made during work - particularly during preparation, such as grit blasting or sanding. Chemical maskSpecialist mask designed to protect from the inhalation of hazardous chemicals. Usually used in enclosed or poorly ventilated spaces. Nitrile glovesChemically resistant gloves offering short-term protection for users working with chemicals. Gripper glovesThicker gloves worn when working with glass fibre matting.

Please note that the above table is specific to fibreglass (GRP) work. Additional steps may be required for concrete preparation. Working with concrete can cause health problems, so please take care.

Types of Concrete

The type of concrete used can determine the extent of preparation work required.  Recommendations on the preparation of concrete for fibreglassing are presented in Table 2.

Table 2. Types of Concrete

TypeDescriptionRecommendation Breeze BlocksEnsure joints are filled in. Apply layer of cement render.Ensure joints are filled in. Apply layer of cement render. Cement RenderCement-based covering applied to base substrate.Allow to dry. Check moisture levels (See Table X). ScreedCement and sand-based coating applied to base substrate.Allow to dry. Check moisture levels (See Table X). Use concrete Existing concreteMay be aforementioned concrete or equivalent.See Table X.
If wet, eliminate moisture source and allow to dry. Wet (Fresh) ConcreteFreshly laid concrete demonstrating a high moisture content.Allow to dry. Check moisture levels (See Table X). Check moisture levels (See Table X). Paving SlabsUniform, flat slabs with small gaps in between each block.Ensure joints are filled in.

1. Concrete Preparation

Before applying fibreglass to concrete, the concrete itself must be amenable to bonding. Loose debris, residual grease, paints and dirt can all interfere with bonding, as can moisture. The surface should present itself as being clean, dry and mildly roughened. A variety of methods are presented in Table 3.

Table 3. Concrete Preparation Methods

MethodDescriptionMicrocracking RiskSkill Level SandingInvolves moving a roughened sheet (sand paper) across the surface to remove surface contaminants, producing a smoother, cleaner surface depending on the paper roughness. Performed by hand for smaller areas or via a rotating disc for larger or more demanding ones. NoneLow GrindingGrinding removes laitance, protrusions, surface contaminants and produces a smooth or polished surface, depending on the roughness of the abrading discs.

The discs move at right angles to the surface, and may leave circular patterns or gouges in the surface. Floor grinders are used for horizontal surfaces. Hand-held grinders are used on vertical surfaces.NoneModerate Abrasive BlastingAbrasive blasting shoots an abrasive in a stream of compressed air. Upon impact, the particles hit the substrate, dislodge fragments and gradually erode the surface. Effective at removing surface contaminants, fragile/porous concrete, coatings and adhesive films, and imparts a profiled surface.NoneModerate ShotblastingShotblasting shoots steel shot over a targeted areas. The steel shot pulverizes the concrete and contaminants leading to a rougher surface. Preferred for cleaning and profiling horizontal surfaces. Alternative to abrasive blasting.NoneModerate Water JettingWater jetting removes contaminants (e.g., grease, dirt, residual paint/resin). It roughens the surface via the impact of jets of high pressure and concentrated high-pressure water. Similar to abrasive/shot blasting, jetting can be used on both vertical and overhead surfaces.NoneLow ScarifyingScarifiers comprise toothed washers on steel rods positioned on a rotating steel drum. The washers contact the surface, fracture and pulverize concrete. This leads to striated pattern. Scarifying only works on horizontal surfaces.ModerateModerate-High

Note: safety is a big factor here. Care should be taken to avoid exposure to dust and debris via inhalation (use a dust mask), eyes (wear safety goggles) and skin (sharp debris can penetrate the skin). 

2. Allow the Concrete to Dry

Unless the concrete is confirmed to be dry, take care to confirm that it has a low moisture content. Fresh concrete is notorious for high levels of moisture and can take 4 &#; 6 weeks to fully dry without accelerated drying. Likewise, it is also possible that existing concrete has been contaminated with water or other chemicals. Moisture itself interferes with chemical bonding, particularly for resins and adhesives.

Table 4. Dealing With Moisture in Concrete

ConditionDescriptionPreparation DrynessPrimer required? Existing/DryConcrete is dry and free from sharp edges. It has a good level of roughness.Mild abrading may be required to ensure adequate roughness and the removal of sharp edges. Remove dust/debris.75% relative humidity as per BSYes Fresh/NewDamp, wet or generally recently laidAllow to dehydrate. Use abrading method to shape and remove sharp edges. Remove dust/debris.Yes DamagedCracks, sections missing, splitsRepair cracks and damaged sections. Allow to dry before sanding/abrading. Remove dust/debris.Yes Damp/MoistConcrete has water ingress or moistureRemove source of moisture. Allow to dry out for an extended period. Remove dust/debris.Yes Contaminated Dirt, grease, chemical staining, vegetative growth, etc. Jet washing and abrading (e.g. sanding) may be required to ensure cleanness and adequate roughness and the removal of sharp edges. Remove dust/debris.Yes

Note: BS &#; Screeds, bases and in-situ floorings details codes of practice related to concrete floors and bases.

Note: to avoid interference with bonding, the concrete should have low levels of moisture. Advice on moisture levels for a standard concrete floor varies according to the measurement system used and the type of concrete. Two tests are available for concrete moisture measurements: the calcium chloride testing and concrete moisture meters.

3. Concrete Repairs

If repairing concrete, cracks may be present on the surface. These should be identified and repaired in advance, prior to any coating with resin. They may need to be smoothed down once cured to create a more uniform surface. Some surface grinding or sanding may be required in this instance. 

Note: fibreglass this includes &#;spray-based lay-up&#; applications of creating a composite, often seen in composites used in the aerospace industry and &#;wet-layup&#; installation methods of creating a composite, often used in civil engineering and building industries. This &#;wet layup&#; method is similar to a hand lay-up, which is commonly used on concrete and other surfaces during in-situ application.

4. Clean the Surface: Remove Dust and Debris

Once surface grinding or blasting has been performed, there is likely to be a degree of dust and debris. These should be removed to create a clean surface amenable to resin adhesion. Excess dust will prevent strong adhesion between the GRP and surface, so care must be taken to remove it. 

Note: again consider dust protection for your eyes, skin and airways, as outlined above. 

5. Primer Application

Concrete is porous and has small cracks by default. The polyester resin used in the laminate is fairly viscous and cannot easily penetrate small pores and cracks. It is preferable to apply a layer of less viscous resin in advance. Whilst this is optional, it does enhance the adhesion of the polyester resin to the concrete. Primer also acts as a moisture-curing layer which also blocks external contaminants from coming into contact with the fibreglass laminate. The primer should be applied using a paintbrush at smaller scales or a foam roller at larger ones. 

Quantities of primer required for concrete surfaces are detailed in Table 5.

Table 5. Primer Quantities

PorosityPrimer Coverage (kg per m2)ToolNote Low Porosity0.25 Polyester rollers (larger areas) or a resin brushes (smaller/complex areas) recommended. If porosity is low, coverage should require less primer, since it will adequately cover the surfce. High Porosity>0.5If porosity is high, then more primer is required, since the liquid will enter into the pores.

Fibreglass Laminating

This section details the laminating and topcoating procedures needed to create a fibreglass covering.

If you would like to undertake this work yourself, Resin Library offers a range of fibreglass kits. These kits include both materials and tools required to undertake work across a range of sizes. These include repair kits and roofing kits.

1. Pre-Cut Glass Fibre Matting

The next step is to size and cut the CSM. Concrete protection made from GRP typically requires more robust protection. In most instances, 450 or a 600 gram CSM is recommended. Applicators should cut and size the CSM into manageable sections that fit the designated area. For concrete floors, these should be larger than small repairs. In all instances, the CSM should exceed the area to which it is being applied. 

Table 6. Laminate Thickness

DesignDescriptionApplications 1 x 450 gram CSM1 layer of 450 gram glass fibre mattingThin fibreglass flat roofing membrane not suitable for low-level foot traffic. Low-cost flat roof option for sheds and other buildings not expecting foot traffic. 1 x 600 gram CSM1 layer of 600 gram glass fibre mattingStandard flat roofing membrane for low-to-moderate level foot traffic. Flat roofs expecting window cleaners and gutter cleaners. Commonly used on property extensions, garages, orangeries, factories, apartments etc. Suitable for green sedum roofing. Able to tolerate some equipment placement (e.g., air conditioning units). 2 x 450 gram CSM2 layers of 600 gram glass fibre mattingReinforced flat roofing membrane for moderate level foot traffic. Flat roofs expecting window cleaners and gutter cleaners. Suitable for green sedum roofing. Able to tolerate equipment placement (e.g., air conditioning units). 2 x 600 gram CSM2 layers of 600 gram glass fibre mattingReinforced flat roofing membrane for moderate-to-heavy level foot traffic. Flat roofs expecting window cleaners and gutter cleaners. Also balconies, walkways and terraces. Suitable for green sedum roofing. Able to tolerate equipment placement (e.g., air conditioning units).

Note: overlapping sections of the CSM requires a level of skill and understanding. This is to ensure that the laminate remains a seamless barrier. 

2. Laminate the Glass Fibre

Mix the resin with catalyst and use a polyester roller saturated in this mixture to disperse and drive it into the mat. 

Table 7. Resin Quantities per Laminate Design

Laminate DesignGlass Fibre MattingNumber of layersResin Weight per LayerTotal Resin Weight Single Layer450 gram11.1 - 1.3 kg/m21.1 - 1.3 kg/m2 Dual Layer22.2 - 2.6 kg/m2 Single Layer600 gram11.5 - 1.7 kg/m21.5 - 1.7 kg/m2 Dual Layer23.0 - 3.4 kg/m2

Note: ensure that the resin-catalyst mixture is carefully but fully mixed. Avoid excessive air bubbles but ensure that the catalyst has been fully dispersed into the resin. Excess air causes bubbles, which weaken the laminate. 

Caution: this step should be performed when the weather is dry; water and even low levels of moisture interfere with the curing process. If in doubt, it is better to wait until there is a dry spell. 

Note: freshly catalysed resin should be used immediately. Once the catalyst has been added to the resin, it will lose its adhesive and waterproofing capabilities. 

3. Consolidate the Laminate

Then use a paddle roller to consolidate the laminate, refining the laminated surface and forcing air bubbles and excess resin out. This is important since air pockets create structural weaknesses in the composite &#; a major cause of defects. 

Are you interested in learning more about sourcing fiberglass mesh waterproofing? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

4. Allow Laminate Curing

Once the laminate has been consolidated, allow it to harden or &#;cure&#;. This allows time for the resin to &#;crosslink&#; and create a strong structure. 

Recommended time: 24 hours (winter) and 12 hours (summer). 

5. Prepare Resin Topcoat

Once the laminate has hardened, prepare the topcoat. This involves mixing it with a catalyst and a dye to add colour using a similar process to that used for the polyester resin. For flooring applications, such as those used on terraces, walkways, balconies and in wet or slippery areas, a non-slip coating is desirable. This involves adding a set amount of non-slip aggregate into the topcoat during the mixing process. 

Table 8. Concrete Preparation Pre-Fibreglassing

CuringHot weatherWarm weatherCool weatherCold weather Catalyst (%)1 (%)2 (%)3 (%)4 (%) Resin Weight (kg)MEKP Catalyst Volume (mL) 110 mL20 mL30 mL40 mL 220 mL40 mL60 mL80 mL 330 mL60 mL90 mL120 mL 440 mL80 mL120 mL160 mL 550 mL100 mL150 mL200 mL

Note: the size of the grit should be selected according to the purpose: for swimming pools where bare feet are common, a finer grit is recommended. Conversely, for 

Note: refer to the manufacturer&#;s instructions to obtain the optimum amount of non-slip grit per volume of topcoat. Ensure that the grit is well mixed before application. 

6. Topcoat Application

Pour a single layer of topcoat resin onto the laminated concrete surface. Take care to avoid applying too much as this will create a brittle outer surface. At the same time, ensure there is adequate resin to cover the glass fibre CSM laminate. Use a foam roller to disperse the topcoat over larger surface areas. 

Table 9. Topcoat (Flowcoat Application)

Surface Area (m2)Topcoat Weight (kg) 10.5 21 31.5 42.0 52.5

Note: refer to manufacturer&#;s instructions for specific quantities of resin per square meter of laminate. 

Once the topcoat has been applied, provide adequate time for it to cure and harden. Average cure times range from 2 &#; 12 hours (summer) to 24 hours (winter). This can vary from project to project.

Frequently Asked Questions

Fibreglass linings and coatings have many applications. We&#;ve tried to answer some of these below.

Q. How do I fibreglass a concrete pond?

A. The same procedure as outlined above can be applied to create a fibreglass pond lining.

Q. What is the procedure for fibreglassing concrete?

A. The video below provides an excellent overview on how to create a fibreglass coating for concrete.

Q. What is the best method for measuring concrete moisture levels?

A. Moisture meters are more precise and accurate than calcium tests, which are generally cheap, quick and easy to perform, although less accurate.  A more detailed overview of moisture meters has been discussed.

Disclaimer: please note that the information on this site is for general informational purposes. Resin Library is not liable for any outcomes. Please consult professional advice in advance of conducting any work.

May 17, &#; By Matthew Stock with Mike Likvan.

If you are hav­ing base­ment seep­age and are think­ing of installing Inte­ri­or Drain Tile to keep your base­ment dry, here are 12 ques­tions you need to ask any con­trac­tor who&#;s offer­ing you a solu­tion. These ques­tions will help you dis­cov­er crit­i­cal infor­ma­tion about the con­trac­tor, their solu­tions and ser­vices so you will be well pre­pared to make a smart buy­ing decision.

12

Ques­tions To Ask Before You Buy Drain Tile

1. What oth­er solu­tions do you offer besides Drain Tile and why won&#;t they work as well for me?
This ques­tion is impor­tant because some com­pa­nies plan to rec­om­mend Inte­ri­or Drain Tile before they even meet you. Their rec­om­men­da­tion isn&#;t based on your needs, it&#;s based on theirs. So ask them what oth­er options they have for you. Full ser­vice water­proof­ing com­pa­nies have a vari­ety of effec­tive and com­ple­men­tary ways to cor­rect seep­age prob­lems that don&#;t require drain tile. 

2. Is your inte­ri­or drain tile sys­tem main­te­nance free?
A prop­er­ly designed and installed Inte­ri­or Drain Tile sys­tem doesn&#;t require reg­u­lar main­te­nance. You put it in and it works. Some com­pa­nies install infe­ri­or prod­ucts prone to clog­ging; then they install cleanouts and offer ser­vices to flush out the sys­tem. Their return vis­its are designed as a way to get back into your home to sell you even more ser­vices. Be leery of sys­tems requir­ing main­te­nance as part of their design. 

3. Do you offer a pre-instal­la­tion walk-through to pre­pare me for the project?
The instal­la­tion of Inte­ri­or Drain Tile is major surgery for your base­ment. Dur­ing the ini­tial vis­it most cus­tomers are con­cerned more with the solu­tion, how soon it can be installed and of course, cost. They aren&#;t typ­i­cal­ly pre­pared to dis­cuss the logis­tics and nec­es­sary prepa­ra­tion for the job. That&#;s why we include this walk-through. We&#;ve learned a sec­ond vis­it helps you sat­is­fy ques­tions and con­cerns you may not have thought about dur­ing our first visit.

4. Can you pro­vide me with a list of refer­rals you&#;ve done in my neigh­bor­hood in the last few years?
Ask­ing for these refer­rals will let you talk to a company&#;s pre­vi­ous cus­tomers to hear first­hand how their project was han­dled. When you get the refer­rals, take advan­tage of them. Talk­ing to refer­rals is your best source of unbi­ased infor­ma­tion about a com­pa­ny and how they oper­ate. Make sure the com­pa­ny has done sev­er­al jobs in your neighborhood. 

5. Do you have online reviews I can read?
Anoth­er great way to learn about a com­pa­ny is to read their cus­tomers&#; reviews on the Inter­net. There are sites like Yelp, BBB, Angie&#;s List, and even Google has reviews. And while you&#;re at Google, anoth­er way to dig up dirt on a com­pa­ny is to search the com­pa­ny name, then include a word after it like &#;&#;prob­lem&#;, &#;&#;com­plaints&#;, &#;&#;scam&#; or &#;&#;ripoff&#;. 

When you&#;re read­ing reviews keep two things in mind; the num­ber of stars and the num­ber of reviews. The aver­age num­ber of stars gives you a pre­view of how sat­is­fied you can expect to be when work­ing with a com­pa­ny. But also con­sid­er the num­ber of reviews. A small num­ber of reviews can indi­cate that the com­pa­ny is new to the indus­try or has only a few cus­tomers. Any of these should be a yel­low flag that you should prac­tice cau­tion when rely­ing on them for expert advice or years of sup­port after the sale.

6. What is the war­ran­ty on the solu­tion you are installing for me?
War­ranties can be mis­lead­ing &#; by design. They are used by some hon­est busi­ness­es to reas­sure you the prod­uct you pur­chase will per­form as promised, or it will be fixed if it doesn&#;t. They are also used by shady busi­ness­es and man­u­fac­tur­ers to give you a false sense of com­fort. These are the war­ranties that seem too good to be true. For exam­ple: mechan­i­cal pumps with life­time war­ranties that will give you unlim­it­ed replace­ments for free after the buy the first one. And then there are the drainage sys­tems that will be ser­viced for cen­turies to come, as long as a struc­ture is still stand­ing. These are smoke screens used to dis­tract you so you don&#;t look clos­er at what you&#;re actu­al­ly buy­ing. The truth is this. Buy a solu­tion as if it didn&#;t come with a war­ran­ty. That way you won&#;t be dis­tract­ed by the war­ran­ty terms and you will spend more time look­ing at the qual­i­ty of what you&#;re get­ting and who&#;s pro­vid­ing it.

NOTE: Water­proof­ing com­pa­nies offer a war­ran­ty, not a guar­an­tee. What that means is they &#;&#;promise&#; to come back to fix it, but won&#;t pay you if their sys­tem fails and caus­es damage.

7. What kind of sump pumps are you installing?
Base­ment drainage sys­tems inter­cept water that wants to get into your base­ment. It then feeds that water into a basin where a sump pump removes it and the process starts again. The heart of the sys­tem is your sump pump. Some com­pa­nies make the price of their sys­tems low­er for unsus­pect­ing home­own­ers by using infe­ri­or plas­tic pumps that can&#;t prop­er­ly pump larg­er vol­umes of water. Don&#;t be fooled. When the dry­ness of your base­ment relies on a pump, don&#;t set­tle for plas­tic. Insist on a cast iron pri­ma­ry pump. And ask for a bat­tery back­up pump also. Hav­ing two pumps with one able to use bat­tery pow­er is cheap &#;&#;dry­ness insur­ance&#; for your base­ment. Remem­ber, pumps are mechan­i­cal so you know at some point they will fail. So will the pow­er com­ing into your home dur­ing heavy storms. Don&#;t be caught with­out a work­ing pump when you need it most!

8. How are dis­putes resolved if there is an issue with your work?
As much as rep­utable com­pa­nies try to do their best, there are times when dis­putes may arise. When that hap­pens, it&#;s impor­tant to know your choic­es for find­ing a rem­e­dy. Can you hire your lawyer and take them to court? It&#;s good to find this out ahead of time because there is at least one water­proof­ing com­pa­ny that forces you into bind­ing arbi­tra­tion in order to decide the out­come of their dis­putes. Going this route can cost thou­sands of dol­lars and if their arbi­tra­tor rules in their favor, you can also get stuck pay­ing their expens­es for the arbitration.

9. Do you offer handy­man ser­vices to help pre­pare my base­ment for the project and put it back together?
Know­ing this is help­ful because you may have car­pet­ing, dry­wall, or a wash­er / dry­er that is in the path of where the drain tile will be installed. And while it&#;s pos­si­ble to hire a local handy­man to do this prep work, coor­di­nat­ing his sched­ule with the water­proofers could prove to be dif­fi­cult. Plus your handy­man (if you are lucky enough to find one who will call you back and show up when they promise!) may not know all that is need­ed to com­plete­ly pre­pare your base­ment, caus­ing poten­tial delays in get­ting your project started. 

10. If I think I have a prob­lem after the instal­la­tion, will I be charged for the return ser­vice call?
While it&#;s not com­mon, there&#;s always a pos­si­bil­i­ty that the prob­lem you tried to fix hap­pens again. Some­times this is a fault in the new sys­tem, espe­cial­ly if the work was done incor­rect­ly or you we&#;re sold an infe­ri­or or imi­ta­tion drain tile sys­tem. At times the con­tin­u­ing prob­lem isn&#;t relat­ed to the new sys­tem at all, but rather a sec­ondary prob­lem that still exists such as a leak­ing water heater or fur­nace. So how do you know? Your first option is to have your water­proofer return to help you deter­mine the source of the prob­lem. Just make sure you pick a water­proof­ing com­pa­ny who will come back with­out charg­ing you more if the prob­lem doesn&#;t turn out to be your new system.

11. What type of design is your drainage system?
Expe­ri­enced water­proofers know that the most effi­cient way to trans­port foun­da­tion water is through a round drainage pip­ing sys­tem posi­tioned next to the foot­ing at the base of the foun­da­tion wall. Some com­pa­nies have designed less effec­tive, but eas­i­er to install sys­tems that sit on top of the foot­ing. Oth­ers repur­pose lawn drainage sys­tems or use a series of mini-tubes in an effort to win busi­ness from their system&#;s &#;&#;unique­ness&#;. The prob­lem with all of these uncon­ven­tion­al sys­tems is they do a bet­ter job at mak­ing a prof­it for the con­trac­tor than keep­ing your base­ment dry. So make sure you know what com­pa­nies mean when they use the gener­ic term &#;&#;drain tile&#; to describe their drainage system.

NOTE: Round drainage pip­ing comes in two basic types (PVC and Cor­ru­gat­ed) that both do the job well. So don&#;t believe the tired argu­ment that has long since been dis­proven, that one is stronger and one is prone to collapse.

12. Is your drainage pipe wrapped in a fine mesh, fil­tra­tion fabric?
One of the sim­plest, but most impor­tant com­po­nents of a prop­er­ly designed and installed base­ment drain tile sys­tem is the fil­tra­tion fab­ric that is the last line of defense for keep­ing dirt out of your drain tile and ulti­mate­ly your sump pumps. When it is not used, it sig­nif­i­cant­ly increas­es the dirt and grit that enters your sys­tem which sig­nif­i­cant­ly decreas­es the life of the sys­tem. We know because we&#;ve replaced many drain tile sys­tems installed by oth­er com­pa­nies that were only a few years old but were installed with­out this fil­ter fabric.

There is one more ques­tion, and this is one you need to ask yourself&#;

13. How much are you pre­pared to invest to keep your base­ment dry? 
Too often we see home­own­ers who use price to guide their solu­tion and ulti­mate­ly they fall short of all what they tru­ly need.

Remem­ber what John Ruskin said:

&#;

It&#;s unwise to pay too much, but it&#;s worse to pay too lit­tle. When you pay too much, you lose a lit­tle mon­ey&#;&#;&#;that&#;s all. When you pay too lit­tle, you some­times lose every­thing, because the thing you bought was inca­pable of doing the thing it was bought to do.&#;

At U.S. Water­proof­ing we are here to help you make an edu­cat­ed deci­sion and wel­come you ask­ing us the 12 ques­tions above as well as any oth­ers you might have about our com­pa­ny or our solutions.

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